J

JDanno

Well Known Member
Is it customary to use any thread lock or maybe even anti-seize on the prop flange mounting bolts? My first install so I have no experience with it. Thanks.
 
I just did this last week, be advised it may be helpful to pre thread the safety wire into the nut, before you get to final torque------I even had to back off a couple of nuts, insert the wire, and re torque them, just no other way to get the wire in place.

By the way, I borrowed a Snap On torque wrench from a buddy, has interchangable heads, worked perfectly for the prop nuts.

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Glad I could borrow these, pretty pricey ------- but SWEET

Good luck.
 
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Mike S said:
I just did this last week, be advised it may be helpful to pre thread the safety wire into the nut, before you get to final torque------I even had to back off a couple of nuts, insert the wire, and re torque them, just no other way to get the wire in place.

Good luck.
Click to expand...

That's a great tip I wish I knew two years ago! Thanks.
 
torquey wenches

okay, that's a nice snap-On alright...I've never seen one.
So I'd guess the other 99% of the population uses a socket and standard torque wrench, so pre-threading the wire isn't an option, right?
Since the bolts are safety'd in pairs, I'm not sure I see why they become hard to wire?....but I've not had to replace the prop yet, but I will this year when I install a crank trigger for EI.
You mechanic types can give some pointers here for all us newbies!

thx
 
flyboy1963 said:
So I'd guess the other 99% of the population uses a socket and standard torque wrench, so pre-threading the wire isn't an option, right?
Since the bolts are safety'd in pairs, I'm not sure I see why they become hard to wire?....
thx
Click to expand...

This is mostly a CS prop thing. For a non CS prop you can use regular sockets and get the wire on easily. The Hartzell hub makes it hard to get the wire in from some positions (you also have to use an adapter or mod a crescent wrench)
 
Safety wire Hartzell

Per Hartzell:

Torque the 1/2 inch propeller mounting nuts (dry) in
accordance with Table 3-1, Figure 3-1 and Figure 3-2.
Safety wire the studs in pairs (if required by the aircraft
maintenance manual) at the rear of the propeller mounting
flange.

Being that the RV doesn't have a MM, safety wiring is optional.
 
My M.P. propeller manual says to safety wire in pairs.

Also says to use .032"-----

I ended up using .040" because I could make it fit, and that is what I understand is the norm for props.

And, yes, as mentioned above, this is a C/S issue about the clearance for installing the safety wire.
 
Since the bolts are safety'd in pairs, I'm not sure I see why they become hard to wire?....but I've not had to replace the prop yet, but I will this year when I install a crank trigger for EI.
You mechanic types can give some pointers here for all us newbies!

thx[/quote]

You have no idea what a pia this is. Let us know how many punctures you have in your fingers when you do yours. Don
 
Belleville washers

I use four Belleville washers on each prop bolt, two one way and two the other, to secure my FP prop so no safety wire is required. What's best about this is that these washers will take up any swelling-shrinking of a wood-core prop so there is no need to keep checking torque regularly. Even safety wire won't help if your wood-core FP prop shrinks and loses its clamping force. The back of the blade will char, slop around, and break off the bolts. They would probably work well on a CS prop also as they will maintain the bolt torque. Vance Jaqua did a nice write-up on them that is floating around.
 
We also have to do it in the next few days on the RV10. Two questions-

Will a standard torque wrench with a crow foot attached work? The crow foot looks like the bottom item of Mike's post but with the square hole to fit onto the torque wrench.

What is the torque value specified? The prop manual is in the hangar and I do not know if it is in there so I am asking.
 
crow's foot works well. I believe my MT prop was torqued to 45 foot-pounds. Your prop should have come with the values.

Janekom said:
We also have to do it in the next few days on the RV10. Two questions-

Will a standard torque wrench with a crow foot attached work? The crow foot looks like the bottom item of Mike's post but with the square hole to fit onto the torque wrench.

What is the torque value specified? The prop manual is in the hangar and I do not know if it is in there so I am asking.
Click to expand...
 
Safe wiring Hartzells always seems nonsensical. The prop can't fall off the airplane unless all six bolts back out simultaneously; surely you'll notice a problem before then! No safe wire will keep an individual bolt properly torqued if it decides to loosen for some really weird reason. Yet we all safe wire because the facility is built into the bolt.

Hartzell does say .032 in an FAA-approved manual. Yet the local FSDO wants .040 when a DAR (now retired) I always used didn't give a Rhett Butler. I'd use .032 if whoever you will use for an A/W inspection will buy it. It's easier to install and - see above - is inconsequential.

John Siebold
 
You can actually stick the wire in until it hits the hub. Hold it there, and use a pick or tiny screwdriver to bend it between hub & nut. Push another 1/8" and do it again. About three times and you can grab the end with your pliers. Then push/pull & the wire comes right through. For torquing, you can use a regular combination wrench. Open end on prop nut. Use a junk bolt & nut the same size in the box end and put you torquer on that. Torque wrench setting =torque wrench length divided by combo wrench length + torque wrench length x original torque setting.
 
RV7ator said:
Safe wiring Hartzells always seems nonsensical. The prop can't fall off the airplane unless all six bolts back out simultaneously; surely you'll notice a problem before then! No safe wire will keep an individual bolt properly torqued if it decides to loosen for some really weird reason. Yet we all safe wire because the facility is built into the bolt.

Hartzell does say .032 in an FAA-approved manual. Yet the local FSDO wants .040 when a DAR (now retired) I always used didn't give a Rhett Butler. I'd use .032 if whoever you will use for an A/W inspection will buy it. It's easier to install and - see above - is inconsequential.

John Siebold
Click to expand...

I agree, show me where there is a requirment to safety the prop on the RV?

Per the Hartzell Manual:

Torque the 1/2 inch propeller mounting nuts (dry) in accordance with Table 3-1, Figure 3-1 and Figure 3-2. Safety wire the studs in pairs (if required by the aircraft maintenance manual) at the rear of the propeller mounting flange.

The RV doesn't have an approved MM so safety wiring is optional.
 
Torque Arm

When using a crow foot with your torque wrench instead of a socket, I always position the crow foot 90 degrees to the wrench. If you have the foot stick out straight you will lengthen the 'arm' and slightly over torque the bolt. By positioning it 90 degrees to the wrench you eliminate the extra length and will achieve the torque you would if you were using a socket.
Craig
 
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