AMURRAY

AMURRAY

Well Known Member
I never thought I would install an EFIS in my RV. If I want to fly an EFIS I will go to work. Steam gauges are good with me. But these new EFIS, EMS combos are now cheaper than buying all the round gauges. So I'm going to buy one. Now this is my problem. The RV6 tip up has the F645 instrument panel mounting rib right in the line of sight of the pilot. Which is OK for a 6 pack. To mount an EFIS I will have to offset to the center of the panel. I guess I will have to get used to it. My question is how has others dealt with laying out there panel? Pictures would be appreciated.
Thanks,
Aaron
 
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Try playing around with the tool at EPanelBuilder. You can put in an imaginary line in the middle and position various pieces of equipment.

Rather than a single unit, you might consider side-by-sides like the units from Aspen Avionics. They are not in full production yet, but should be soon. You could get nearly the same effect from a pair of vertically mounted Blue Mountain EFIS Sports.

Good luck!
 
Unless the -6 tipper is substantially different from the -7, we've usually just cut off the panel rib and moved it outboard a couple inches to accomodate the EFIS.

Jim
 
EFIS

How about the Dynon D10A......fits in existing hole, or to the right
of the support.
You can even stack two of them and be less than the Aspen.
 
Cut the offending rib out and displace it to the right and build another rib like it and displace it to the right of the removed rib. This will cure your problem and also add some strength to the panel. I have done several times with good success.
 
I cut it down...

Norman CYYJ said:
Cut the offending rib out and displace it to the right and build another rib like it and displace it to the right of the removed rib. This will cure your problem and also add some strength to the panel. I have done several times with good success.
Click to expand...

My approach is slightly different.... I cut the left hand brace down so it only captures the lower screw.

cut-panel-1%20(Small).jpg


I'm not flying yet, but if the panel proves to be too "wiggly" a single rod brace from the EFIS mount bracket to the sub-panel bulkhead will stiffen it up. A single nutplate on the sub-panel should be sufficient for this brace...

gil A
 
Gil you might want to put a support in now and not later it will be easier and won't cut into your flying time. Reason being that you will grab or an other person will grab the panel to steady themselves and it will end up bending while they are getting in or out. Those panel just don't have enough strength in them without the ribs. That is why I went with the extra rib, also I use 1/8 angle around the top instead of the .063.
Your panel is looking good.
 
In retrofitting Louise's -6 panel, I ran into exactly the same problem with the rib. because the sub-panel ad already been ...er..."modified" several times, I really didn't have a good place to move and remount the rib to, so just decided to put a D10A on the left side of it, and the D180 on the right. Neither of them is directly in front of the pilot, but it really hasn't bothered me yet on the few hours I've flown it.

If you're building from scratch, I'd move the rib - but it was not a huge deal to work around it.

Paul
 
Thanks guys for the great ideas. I guess I will be moving-modifying the rib. I guess I should of planned a little better. I already painted the sub panel and ribs. A little paint touch up will be in my future.
Aaron
 
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I was too lazy to move the rib and mounted the D-180 just to the right of it in my -7. It's obviously not centered, but I find that it's not a big deal and don't really notice it at all. Visibility and readability are excellent, and the buttons are all easily reachable.

IMG_01591.JPG


-
Scott
RV-7A N653S
265 Hours
 
Plane is a 1991 RV-6A tip-up. Panel work will be an upgrade.

Plan is to switch from original Van's .063 single sheet panel, to a modular panel from .090 6061-T6 Aluminum. Frame will be cut from .090 Al and have 1/8" angle reinforcement around edges. "Stack" will be on aircraft center line, with the panel spacers becoming part of the sides of the stack. Left & Right modular panels are the same, just mirror image, also from .090 Al. Giving up the canopy jettison mechanism. Left side panel will be EFIS, 2-axis AP, 2.25" backup instruments. Right side panel initially will be experimental area for some video equipment.

But then as we all know, the best laid plans of mice and ........
 
Before flying

Norman CYYJ said:
Gil you might want to put a support in now and not later it will be easier and won't cut into your flying time. Reason being that you will grab or an other person will grab the panel to steady themselves and it will end up bending while they are getting in or out. Those panel just don't have enough strength in them without the ribs. That is why I went with the extra rib, also I use 1/8 angle around the top instead of the .063.
Your panel is looking good.
Click to expand...

Norman ... any bracing strut needed will go in before flying...:)
An initial look before the panel is really secured does indicate that a brace is needed.

I'm just not adding one yet until the D-180 is installed, and I'll probably use the same rivets that attach the EFIS mount.

Since this is a single glass screen panel, I really wanted the screen centered in front of me - and that point seems to be right at the support brace...:(
If you have dual screen panel on the pilot's side, the problem probably goes away....:)

Thanks for the nice comment.... gil A
 
Dynon D-10

If you do go with the Dynon D-10, and mount it/ them just inboard of the stock rib location, you'll find that the offset is so slight so as to be hardly noticeable. This is how I did it.

panel1.jpg
 
Just another way to do it, if you're not doing removable panel groups as in Gil's photo:

subpanel.jpg


The cutouts in the subpanel are (from left): Airspeed/Altimeter/ADI, BMA EFIS, radio stack, glovebox. The cutouts were lined with grommet material. The red lines on the frame show roughly where I cut the flange away for clearance; I then riveted angle back along the cut to reinforce the frame. You can see how the panel/subpanel ribs were moved (and an extra one used) to support the panel; the rivet lines reveal the structure behind the subpanel which had to be missed. Note that I managed to include the canopy release mechanism.

Posted elsewhere, but here is the installed panel:

panelinst.jpg
 
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