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prkaye

Well Known Member
For the Dynon ammeter shunt, they recommend putting 1 amp fuses on both connections to the D-180. One option they give is to use 1 to 2 inches of 26AWG wire. I think it would be better to use proper fuses though.
I don't want to install another fuse block just for these two fuses... any recommendations for a type of fuse that i can easily splice in-line with each wire?
 
Inline fuses

B&C sells them. They come with a heavy wire (in a continuous circle) and fuse receptacle. Used these for seat heat and rear seat vest power supply. Secondary use of power outlet for charging batt.
 
Is there any reason why I shouldn't use the cylindrical glass fuses for this? I found some inline fuse holders for these at NAPA, and they are nice and small. I would put them inline back behind the firewall, to avoid excessive vibration and heat.
 
prkaye said:
Is there any reason why I shouldn't use the cylindrical glass fuses for this? I found some inline fuse holders for these at NAPA, and they are nice and small. I would put them inline back behind the firewall, to avoid excessive vibration and heat.
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I like fusible links for this application because no part of the current path is left unprotected. With inline fuses, you have some length of wire between the shunt and the fuse that has no short-circuit protection.

mcb
 
With inline fuses, you have some length of wire between the shunt and the fuse that has no short-circuit protection.
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But the current along a wire (and through the fuse, wherever it is) would be the same at any given time, being a path of negligable resistance. So, wherever you put the fuse, if the current in the wire gets too high, the fuse will blow before the wire will burn. Am I missing somethign?

To reiterate my question about the glass fuses... is there any reason why these are a no-no in aircraft?
 
prkaye said:
But the current along a wire (and through the fuse, wherever it is) would be the same at any given time, being a path of negligable resistance. So, wherever you put the fuse, if the current in the wire gets too high, the fuse will blow before the wire will burn. Am I missing somethign?
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Think about what happens if the wire between the shunt and the fuse chafes on something and shorts to ground.

mcb
 
prkaye said:
Is there any reason why I shouldn't use the cylindrical glass fuses for this?
Click to expand...
It is more complicated
More connections
More vibration on the wires/holder
If the fuses from the shunt blow there is a huge problem
More cost

To install with fuse link ....
Solder 2 inches of #26 to the end of the shunt wires
Slide on heat shrink to cover link and terminal
Crimp on ring lug
slide heat shrink and shrink it
Screw lugs to shunt
Done
4119454046_3d2a8a8790.jpg
 
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