azonic75

Well Known Member
Curious if anyone has any pics of how they ran their Infinity wires from their front and rear sticks. A pic of the wire routing for the trutrak roll servo would also be great. Thanks

Kai
 
Stick grips wiring

There are a lot of possibilities to run the wires from the Infinity Stick Grips.
The most important thing is maintain the freedom of movement of the stick - pay attention not to block or limit movement in any direction.
I would recommend you to place a terminal block somewhere on the floor, connect the wires of the cable going from the grip to the terminal block and from the terminal use single wires in a bundle, wherever you want them to go.
if you want a safety feature to the trim system (to prevent a situation of conflict between opposite inputs ("up" from the pilot and "down" from the copilot), I made a Two Place Trim Mixer which you can purchase from Aircraft Spruce - http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/elpages/2placetrimmixer.php (I installed it in my -8 and it works great).
Ariel Arielly
Israel
 
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Infinity stick wiring

It is important that you cut the large blue cable cover and shielding off. Then, open the stick and remove all but one ground wire that connect to all switches. The resulting wire bundle will be a fraction of the original size. I drilled a small hole (1/4 I think), to route the wire out the aft end of the stick just above the hinge point. Some will argue that you can't drill any holes in the stick. I sure would NOT drill a hole larger enough to route the original blue cable, but. I have inspected the stick over the years, and have found no problems with the small hole. Route the wire back along the stick to a miniature 12 contact strip connector mounted to the right floor rib. Route all aircraft functions to the lower contacts, and route the Infinity function to the top contacts of the strip connector. The wires move with the rotation of the control system and put very little fatigue on the contacts. !2 years and 1300 hours no problems.


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For my RV-8 I followed Danny King's recommendation and combined common grounds resulting in 1/4" bundle thru 3/8" hole in stick. Blue cover stripped off cable replaced with snakeskin. Cable passage thru stick protected by rubber grommet. Connectors are 15 pin d-subs (no high amps thru switches since I'm using VPx)

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Front stick is custom (thicker tubing to account for hole).
Rear stick is standard with hole in side to sidestep max fore and aft stresses.

3 ground wires used in bundle... 1 for PTT, 1 for CWS, 1 for all the other buttons. The last combined ground is always live for the Pilot but the one from the PAX stick is routed to a cutout switch. The only reason I segregated PTT & CWS is to allow for replacement with shielded wire runs just in case I get the noise that some folks have reported from those wire runs.

Cable flex forces are symetrical (left/right) based on mirror image mounting of d-subs on spar cap.

My goal was clean, robust, and easy to trouble shoot/inspect/maintain.

Hope this gives you some ideas...I know that viewing everybody elses solutions on this blog led me to the above solution. Thanks to all....