Thought about it, did not do that
Bob the extension of the induction was discussed in Speed with Economy, by Kent Paser. The Mustang II cowl is similar to our RV cowl with the induction scoop coming off the lower portion of the cowl (typical of our FAB updraft induction). I recall that there was no speed increase or MAP increase and it looked frankly kind of odd. His solution was 10 degrees into the advancing prop blade, 11 degree diverging interior wall of the long scoop, no more than 5/8" from prop blade and slight bell mouth with an inlet area 10% (larger) than area of the carb throat. He DID NOT get a MAP increase or top speed bump but felt he got more climb? I guess it got a little more power at the slow speed of the climb. The effect of prop blast I guess was more predominate at slow speed. Going fast, the prop blast effect I guess is nullified. Also the relative angle of air hitting the scoop is different in climb than cruise. (Of course the holy grail is variable cowl inlet and intake geometry but complication v benefit is probably not practical.)
Kent's other insight was an absolute seal between the scoop and air box is needed. Per Van's plans we use a soft baffle seal to bridge the gap between the cowl scoop and air box. Not super air tight. Kent found a removable door under the cowl was needed to conveniently make & break the duct connection. I'm adding a access door under the cowl to get at the induction coupler (clamp) between the scoop and air box. Van has suggested this in old RVators. The stock set up is OK but leaks. My comment or opinion is forget the long snorkel scoop but make sure the seal is tight.
The
"P-51 Scoop" under the spinner is bad news for one reason, the air really sucks there. WE ARE NOT A P-51. Look real hard at the spinner, prop, scoop on a late model P-51. The spinner is almost as big as our whole fuselage and the blades are aerodynamic airfoil shapes right up to the spinner. Now look at your Hartzell. What do you have. The prop blade roots adjacent to the spinner have the aerodynamics of a baseball bat. Fixed props are not much better being almost like a 2-by-4 near the spinner.
We could add a BIG HUGE P-51 spinner. That would do wonders for air flow and hide the prop blade hubs. While we are at it, we should extend the prop out about 12 inches to give a real gradual transition for the cowls scoops and inlets. Unfortunately neither idea is practical, so we are stuck with fairly blunt blade parts sticking out in the breeze and short transitions to the cowl inlets, both cooling and induction. The little O200 powered Reno formula racers have foot long prop extensions. Not going to happen for us.
The best place to take advantage of boosting induction from prop thrust is about 2/3 rds out the blade, about where our scoop is now. The air near the spinner just gets beat to heck. There is not a lot of thrust or boost there. Also for an updraft induction you would now have to route it down to the updraft. That longer duct equals more loss. Also keep in mind the engine does not suck air continuously, it pulses. You can puff air into the inlet but if the induction air box volumn cannot "store" the air it will just spill out. You need a large air box for that. We just don't have a lot of room, but Van did a great job with the room he had. Bottom line I would not do the extend scoop to close the gap with the back of the prop blades.
Bob, I know you have updraft but just a note on guys with forward induction set ups. It makes more sense to put the scoop under the spinner or near it. It may not be perfect but they will have a straight (very short) shot right into the throat of the throttle body and sump. There are gives and takes, pluses and minuses, pros and cons to each setup. No one installation is the best of everything for every engine induction. Van's RV fwd induction air box is very efficient, about as good as it gets.
I would not mess with making a "annular smiley chin scoop" for an updraft carb. It has been done on a RV-6 before. In fact Van's first prototype RV-6 cowl he flew for some time had a annual chin scoop. Guess what? He went back to what the RV-4 has and all RV's have. If you have Fwd induction sump its a thought. Dan C. did both Van's and an alternate air inlet right under the spinner. He found he got some boost with the chin scoop. I think the big advantage is that its unfiltered and the duct is about as long as the cardboard tube for a roll of TP, ie short.
Remember the NACA cowl, Barnard cowl, James Cowl, LoPresti Cowl which has the inlets as far outboard as possible. This gets into the clean air and take some advantage of the prop blast. RV's with the rectangular inlets that fun horizontal to the edge of the spinner have funky air flow. Air actually goes OUT the cowl scoop near the spinner. This is draggy with the slow air spilling back out into the fast airstream.
Bob WHY DON'T YOU BREAK DOWN AND PUT ROUND INLETS ON YOUR COWL AND A SEALED CLOSED UPPER PRESSURE PLENUM? You will pick up at least 5 mph (probably more).
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I know you resisted it for may be money and hassle reasons, plus the paint job re-do, but the results are verified and have real theory behind it. You can nickle and dime but you are throwing a quarter away here. You can keep your existing cowl and baffles and just modify them. The cost would be nominal. Time and effort probably significant; it will be fiberglass intensive.
With all that RAIN on your parade, I say you are the mad scientest. Try it. My conclusions may be wrong. However I'm lazy and like to steal others ideas and efforts.
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I am also a slave to fashion and both snorkel and chin scoops don't turn me on. From the data I see neither the long snorkel scoop or chin scoop will do much for me and my bottom draft O-360/RV-7. I am extending my stock cowl intake scoop a little and modifying the inlet with a round machined aluminum bell mouth, instead of Van's stock induction scoop "D" shape. I'll add the access door so I can get at the duct and clamps, after the lower cowl is in place for an air tight seal. I might angle a little to the right as well, but only if it does not look cockeyed.