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BillC

Well Known Member
OK,
I've installed the trap door on the induction system for alternate bypass air, but where have people been installing the control cable in the cabin? I don't really want it taking up space on the panel. Thinking about attaching it to the F902 vertical bulkhead on left side with angle bracket. Anyone out there done this mod and if so where did you place the control?
 
Hello Bill

I placed mine on the same bracket as the other engine controls. The "emergency air" is located as high and left as I could make it fit and still work. I also filed the sides to square it so that it would have a unique feel. I located the "alt air about 1.5 inches to the right and down. Then comes the throttle, prop and mixture. There is not room left. My cab. heat is located over to the right, close to my passanger (she want to keep warm).

Kent
 
Give due consideration to when you will really need it. What will be your "state of mind" when the engine gets quiet--------calm, cool & collected right??

Make it easy to find, and recognize. Forget aestetics.

Fly safe.

Mike
 
Just food for thought

I put mine near the other engine controls in plan view, in a cluster, throttle, mixture, prop and carb heat, with the fuel pump switch not too far away. Why? Traditional, convention, standard panel and control lay out? I know its old fashion and boring, but I just don't think one push-pull takes too much room and if you ever sell it, it will be more logical for most GA pilots.

Also since all the cable controls are coming off my Carb & airbox and going through the lower center firewall, it makes sense to run straight up to the middle lower part of my RV-7 panel. To go off to one side or the other so you don't have to look at it, really is a serpentine routing of the cable. My old worn out advice, follow the plans and keep it simple.

With that said there is no technical reason you can't place as you like, just consider convention for convention sake. Not shot gunning engine controls but clustering them, even a minor one you may not routinly use, has merit.
 
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I attached mine to the bottom of the panel, right next to the throttle quadrant. I agree with the paniced state of mind:

RRRrrrr (silence)
"What the... why is the engine stopping. (Looks at throttle quadrant.)
The levers are in the right position. Maybe I'll try this little 'alternate air' thingy."
rrrRRRZoom

Dave
 
I use some brass Reed valves on the air filter body. Ram air keeps them closed normally. If something restricts the inlet, they automatically suck open giving alternate air. Simple, light, foolproof, no cable required.
 
Thanks for the thoughts and input guys,

Looks like I'll relocate my cabin heat control, which is currently to the right of the mixture control, and put the emergency air control there. That way it's close at hand.

Since I didn't get but a few replys to my earlier question, I'm wondering just how many people have even installed the trap door either in a new install or replacement for magnetically latched design?
 
I installed the trap door in mine. Came in the firewall kit. Haven't installed the cable yet but, will put it near the other engine controls. Note: Did you install some sort of gasket between the filter plate and the air box housing? Looks like it could use a rubber gasket ( .125 ) thick to help seal and keep out dirt.

Robert Scott
RV9A
Finishing
 
Hi Robert,

No, I hadn't thought about a seal on the plate but now that you mention it, it might be a good idea. I'll have to see what can be done, but must be careful about securing it so as not to ingest it. The plate is a fairly tight fit when in the closed position so 0.125" would be way too thick.
 
I put pro-seal between the plate and airbox. The knob is on the right lower side of my 6A panel, with a warning sticker, stating emergency only, and must be manually reset.

I see no need to place this knob by other engine controls. I wouldn't care to pull it out accidently, instead of grabbing the prop or mixture; as it's somewhat of a pain to reset.
 
"The plate is a fairly tight fit when in the closed position so 0.125" would be way too thick."

What I was getting at was there is a gap between or around the Alt air fitting that passes through the air box housing bottom and the bottom of the air filter retainer plate where it also passes through. A space here will allow some air to bypass the filter even it the Alt door is closed. To me this space should be filled. I'm thinking about gluing a large rubber sheet to the bottom of the air box housing with the same hole in it so it will be sandwiched between the Air box and filter retainer plate. This is due to a lip on the Alt air fitting that protrudes in to the housing about .125 . See no problem with it coming lose.

Robert Scott
9A Finishing
 
Robert,

I have no plate holding up the filter. My plans/kit have the filter up tight to the fiberglass bowl/airbox so there is no gap. I did proseal the galvanized opening piece to the fiberglass prior to riveting (as per instructions). I have seen several builders having the plate but not in my kit. Wonder if the plate was added to or dropped from current design? Received my FWF kit March 2006.
 
Throw it away

BillC said:
Since I didn't get but a few replys to my earlier question, I'm wondering just how many people have even installed the trap door either in a new install or replacement for magnetically latched design?
Click to expand...
THROW IT AWAY. Van as discontinued and replaced it with a cable operated bypass door, see Van's web site. Unless you plan on flying in snow, sleet or heavy ran and IFR, don't bother. The magnetic setup is worthless and potentially dangerous if little parts get loose and sucked into the engine. The cure is worse than the possible (unlikely) blockage. There is a good thread on the topic.

PS you don't have to move the cabin heat, just make a little more room for Carb alt air/heat. Just label them well and use color coded knobs.
 
How is your filter secured to the carb? I remember seeing some clips in my kit but didn't use them because the plate has bolts running through it to hold it in position.


Robert
 
Robert,

Vans supplies a 6" long piece of angle/bent material something like .063x1"x.25". You make 6 clips from this material. Each clip is held in place by the plate nuts (riveted during assembly) that are used to hold the air housing up to the plate attached to carb. Seems to work OK for keeping the filter in place but I have not even started the engine yet.
 
George in Langley BC said:
Clarify which engine, I believe that the air filter is mounted differently in the airboxes of the 0-320 and 0-360.
Click to expand...


This is configuration for O-320
 
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