DonFromTX

DonFromTX

Well Known Member
I had opted for the Ray Allen grips and PTT, but my flap handle looked chintzy. Ray Allen will sell you an extra grip for only $6, fits right on the flap handle.
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Hi Don,

It looks good and will work well but it will still eat your hand. When you push the button in to move the flap handle it works like a paper cutter and removes chunks of the hand, good luck.

Best regards,
Vern
 
Yeah I have noticed that. Am considering filling the gap with bondo or something to help that out. My old arthritic hands can hardly push the button in anyhow, I am going to put in a far softer spring as well.
 
Flap handle button

We just rounded all the sharp edges on the button...AND we have to push the button in, slightly, when dropping the flaps.
Meade
N612RV
 
DonFromTX said:
Yeah I have noticed that. Am considering filling the gap with bondo or something to help that out. My old arthritic hands can hardly push the button in anyhow, I am going to put in a far softer spring as well.
Click to expand...

I used Rectorseal EP-200 epoxy putty. Filled in the nail head area and then took it to the belt sander and reduced the dia to the smaller of the two. It is now like a button instead of a paper punch.

Also, if you "ramp out" the second notch on the flap locater, you won't need to push in the button to go to the next lower flaps.
 
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Hey now those are some really good ideas! I like the ramp of the notches idea a lot. Seems like my old Cherokee had such a setup.

gasman said:
I used Rectorseal EP-200 epoxy putty. Filled in the nail head area and the took it to the belt sander and reduced the dia to the smaller of the two. It is now like a button instead of a paper punch.

Also, if you "ramp out" the second notch on the flap locater, you won't need to push in the button to go to the next lower flaps.
Click to expand...
 
Looks Cool But!

I have a question, how do you get the F-1228 channel cover plate over the Handle?:confused:
 
Let me ask it differently

Let me re phrase: With the nice handle that Don has in his Picture will it fit through the hole in the channel cover F-1228?
 
another potential concern with this

Agree the idea seems like a good one. However, the amount of space between the flap handle and the sides of the seats is relatively small, particularly with the weight of both the pilot and a passenger on the seats where the seat cushions compress and bulge a bit. It is already pretty tight to get my hand around the handle without the additional thickness of a grip. Have you actually tried the grip with seats installed to make sure you can easily get your hand around the handle?

I personally have not had any problems with the existing handle/button design cutting my hand so I don't quite understand what is causing this. If everything is nicely deburred and edges are rounded and the button is adjusted as per the instructions, seems like it would be difficult for the design to cause problems.

Jeff
 
Good point. I will have the seats in this weekend and will have to try it with someone sitting beside me. I may have to put an extension on it:D. I feel the pinching can be helped with a far softer spring to push, and of course eliminated by filling in below the "nail head" where part of your flesh can get pinched. Of course you reduce the chance by half when you make a ramp in the notches for applying flaps.

jte65 said:
Agree the idea seems like a good one. However, the amount of space between the flap handle and the sides of the seats is relatively small, particularly with the weight of both the pilot and a passenger on the seats where the seat cushions compress and bulge a bit. It is already pretty tight to get my hand around the handle without the additional thickness of a grip. Have you actually tried the grip with seats installed to make sure you can easily get your hand around the handle?

I personally have not had any problems with the existing handle/button design cutting my hand so I don't quite understand what is causing this. If everything is nicely deburred and edges are rounded and the button is adjusted as per the instructions, seems like it would be difficult for the design to cause problems.

Jeff
Click to expand...
 
jte65 said:
I personally have not had any problems with the existing handle/button design cutting my hand so I don't quite understand what is causing this. If everything is nicely deburred and edges are rounded and the button is adjusted as per the instructions, seems like it would be difficult for the design to cause problems.

Jeff
Click to expand...

I agree.... deburr the parts.

Another point to consider... This particulat button part is the exact same one that has been supplied with manual flap handles for side by side RV kits since 1988.
 
jte65 said:
I personally have not had any problems with the existing handle/button design cutting my hand so I don't quite understand what is causing this.
Jeff
Click to expand...
When you press on the button, it retracts into the tube till the "nail head makes contact with the end of the tube....... and if you have a bit of thumb skin resting under the "nail head" at the time of contact........ ouch!!....:eek:

There really is no reason for the button to have a head on it.

On my 6A, I cut an exit ramp for the second notch of flaps. I also cut the handle shorter so it now lays within a finger thickness from the floor pan. So when I am ready for the second extension of flaps, I just grab the bar and pull. No thumb effort is required. The manual flaps on my 6A are easy..... easy.... easy.....:)
 
I think it is an age and hand condition unique to me and some other older builders that causes the problem. I have deburred and smoothed mine, but have pinched myself several times already, just repositioning the lever for access while working. Not sure of the purpose of the shape of the factory push button, but regardless, it pinches me.
 
You know I did something to mine while building, but have to research my notes. Age fades memory a bit. Whatever it was I don't get pinched.
Dick Seiders
 
Figured it out from my notes, When originally assembled the tube of the handle extended beyond the position of the ring that slides into it creating a pinch point. I removed the assembly and pulled out the innards and cut the tube length back a bit so that the lower ring was a tad more than flush with the tube end. Haven't had any skin caught since.
Dick Seiders 120093
 
I had to do the same, think I cut off about 1/8th of an inch. Still pinches between the handle and the "nail head".
 
Page 32-07 Figure 2

I have not tried this but it should work. Put a bushing around detent pin MS20392-2C11 with a little grease. The bushing will act as a roller. Of course the slots in F-1266A Flap Detent Bracket will have to be widened. If the slots are also ramped, the button will not have to be pushed in as far, making it easier to operate with less chance of pinching.
Joe Gores
 
Cherokee

DonFromTX said:
Hey now those are some really good ideas! I like the ramp of the notches idea a lot. Seems like my old Cherokee had such a setup.
Click to expand...

Hey Don from Texas, There are several things that remind me of the Cherokee 140 that I owned for 11 years while building my RV-12, the stabilator most of all.

Lonnie
 
I cut the ramp in second notch in 2004. With no bushing installed, it has worked flawlessly. I inspect the slot and pin (bolt) and have found no wear on either part.

With the ramp, there is no need to push the button at all. Just grab and pull........ KISS!

ps. Same as the Cherokee in function, but mechanically different.
 
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The one time I got to fly an RV-12, I thought that the flap handle should be positioned farther forward. And I didn't care for the finger-cutter button. So I thought of a simple extension that solves these issues.

Affix a tube over the flap handle tube any way you want. Drill a hole in it for a cotter pin where it won't snag anything. (You can use a long rivet or some other device like a roll pin for this if you want.)

Buy a piece of dowel that fits inside nicely, cut it so that there's a rounded end at button length and the aft length rests against the RV-12 flap button. Slot the dowel for the cotter pin so the dowel won't fall out. Finally ,install the tube, the dowel and the cotter pin.

Bingo - a longer, better-positioned grip and no finger slicing.

Dave
 
Ramp cut

Could someone please post a picture of the 'ramp cut' before and after. I'm not there yet but want to have a clear picture of what I need to do. Thanks
 
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