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woxofswa

Well Known Member
My elevator tip fairings angle back at the forward surface resulting in a two dimensional or tapered forward edge. The drawings, however, show a straight surface to be layed up on the aft surface of the corresponding HS tip fairing. This would make for an uneven gap. How are most guys doing it?
 
neet trick

Yes the elevator fairings are tapered.

Here is a method I have used several times with great results

1. fit the elevator fairings to perfection
a. this means having the elevators attached as they will be attached during final assembly.
b. make sure the "gap" between the elevator horn and horizontal stabilizer is even, and greater than 3/16" (read plans for this dimension).

2. with the elevator fairings attached with pop rivets take a piece of clear plastic, the kind used for covering book reports, and trace the elevator horn and fairing. be sure to mark two or three "reference" rivets from the horizontal stabilizer so you can get it back in the exact location.
a. you will want to do this on the top and bottom of the horizontal stabilizer.


3. cut one the line you have created so you can transfer this line to the horizontal stabilizer fairing.


4. remove the elevators and proceed fitting your horizontal stabilizer fairings.

5. using the reference rivets you marked earlier, precisely place your clear plastic pattern on the horizontal stabilizer. transfer the line onto the horizontal stabilizer faring.


this will give you an exact line to trim the Horizontal stabilizer fairings to. Obviously you will need some clearance between these two parts of the aircraft but this will give you something to work from.
 
Thanks guys for the input.
I agree that conforming to the dual angles of the counterbalance arm/fairing will make a better looking product, but it will definitely make the aft surface buildup a harder project than depicted on the plans. I am assuming that you just angled the temp foam rib. Also, did you craft the aft surface planes flat or slightly concave to match the movement trajectory of the elevator arm? I have thought of making a wood reproduction of the elevator (male) side and perhaps using that as a mold to form the aft surface of the HS fairing.
I haven't done any glass work yet. I'll be going to West Marine, or Space Age, tomorrow.

Deems, I know you are in AZ, are you building at home or at a local field? You are on my list of people to visit. I am building at home, but near FFZ if you are ever out this way.
 
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Here's how I did it

I first cut the angle(s) in the Horizontal fairings to match the elevators mounted and the fairings clecoed in place. I then took a piece of foam and hot glued it in place to use as a backstop to a fiberglass lay-up for the 'close-out'. Here's a link a a series of pics that logs the process http://deemsrv10.com/album/Sec 12 Empennage Fairings/slides/DSC01294.html. The Foam piece is obviously straight, but a very small amount of sanding/filing will take it down in the center to match the angle in Horizontal fairings. When the foam was sanded 'flush' to the angle in the horizontal, I used an exacto knive to trim out a 'wedge' about 1/4" x 1/4". I removed the foam wedge that was cut around the aft perimeter of the horiz fairing, and then troweled in some flox to bring it back up flush with the foam and the fiberglass. I them cut a piece of multi ply (3 or 4 plys ?) fiberglass and wetted out that lay-up and applied it directly to the foam and flox. The lay-up cured you can trim it flush with the horizontal fairing, the flox when it hardens makes for a 'mounting-flange to which the fiberglass lay-up bonds. this is a technique I learned from rutan building a Long-EZ. Several parts are bonded this way in those plans.
I'm building in the garage in Anthem, until it goes to paint then from the painters to a hangar @ KDVT.
David McNeil is @ FFZ and will be making 1st flight in 1-2 weeks. have you met him yet?
 
Thanks Deems,
Very helpful. You highlight another issue that I guess is subject to debate. I noticed that you (and others) have bondo'd the joints of the fairings seamlessly to the frames. I've heard from others that it is recommended to leave the joint "open" in case the fairing ever needs to be removed for repair or inspection. Your way would certainly paint up better.
Anyone have additional pro/cons to consider?
 
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