rockwoodrv9

rockwoodrv9

Well Known Member
Patron
I am working on the HS and getting ready to start pounding it together. At the center of the rear spar, HS 903, hing bracket HS 911 is bolted on. It also calls for a flush river with the flush head aft. In my first photo, I am showing how I can't fit the caged countersink because of the bend in the hinge bracket.
http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-N8sXm7918Ss/T0RPWKvLesI/AAAAAAAAABs/w-OksiOYxEc/s1600/4084.jpg

My thought is to just use my extra countersink and carefully drill to correct depth. How did all of you other builders do this? I just want to make sure I am assembling it correctly before I start drilling away!
http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-qscvHATMERI/T0RPai02noI/AAAAAAAAAB0/hCsrZ6decxA/s1600/4086.jpg

Thanks for the help.
Rockwood
http://rockwoodrv9a.blogspot.com/
 
Behind?

Rock,

I'm pretty sure that rivet is BEHIND the hinge bracket and there shouldn't be that middle hole that you're trying to countersink.

Tom
 
Edit:Tom beat me to it! ;)

The rivets you note in your plans picture shows rivets that DO NOT get placed in the bearing brackets.

Those rivets are only to rivet the doubler to the spar. The reason the flush head has to be on the aft side is so that the bearing assembly can sit flush to the doubler when it is bolted on.

The only thing that holds the bearing assembly to the spar/doubler parts are the bolts.

Hope that helps. Not sure if you need a new set of brackets to make a new bearing assembly, but I would check with Van's to be sure.
 
Thanks

Yes, it looks like I missed it being behind the bracket. I should have known that if it isn't working, check a fourth time! I will check with Vans.
thanks
 
Rock,

Just order new H-911s - they're cheap enough and if that's all you've replaced so far you're doing fine :D

T.
 
Tom

After looking at your photos, I don't think I even need the manual! You have so many good photos, it is a great place for me and others to check ourselves.
 
Jason

I see you are in West Jordan. One of our daughters and her family live in Provo. We get down there quite often. Next time I am in the area, maybe I could come by and see your project? If you are in the Glenwood Springs - Aspen area, stop on by and check out my work.

Getting to Provo is one of the reasons I am building this plane. Our only granddaughter lives there! After 4 grandsons, last June we finally got the granddaughter. My wife drives over about once a month now for the weekend.

thanks for the help.
 
Let me know next time in town...U42 is just up the street with lot's of RV's too.

Good luck on the build!
 
Should look something like these.

643747704_cBvJ5-M.jpg
 
rockwoodrv9 said:
...My thought is to just use my extra countersink and carefully drill to correct depth. How did all of you other builders do this? I just want to make sure I am assembling it correctly before I start drilling away!
http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-qscvHATMERI/T0RPai02noI/AAAAAAAAAB0/hCsrZ6decxA/s1600/4086.jpg

Thanks for the help.
Rockwood
http://rockwoodrv9a.blogspot.com/
Click to expand...

Rockwood, if you ever DO have to have to countersink near a flange like that, there's a couple of ways to go. One way (and probably the safest) is to grind away part of the foot on a spare countersink cage so it will clear the flange. If you leave a bit more than half of the foot it will still be stable on the work.

If, like me, you don't have a spare cage to modify, another way is to mount your cageless countersink in your drill press, make sure the table is square to the bit, center the work under the bit and clamp it securely, then sneak up on the proper depth, checking with a rivet (or dimpled piece, as appropriate) often. Kind of tedious, but it hasn't come up often enough for me to justify another cage.

I would never attempt to do it with a hand drill; I'm just not that steady with freehand work...

My setup for the top and bottom holes on a RV-7 elevator spar to root rib joint:
FP15022012A00017.jpg
 
Drill press

Good idea on the drill press. I bought the thing, I might as well use it!
I haven't talked with Vans yet, but I don't think I will need to order a new one. I will go by what they say. If they say it is OK, I will put the correct rivet behind the bracket and do a slight countersink and drive a flush rivet to fill the hole. I have a couple other things I want from Vans, so I may just order a new one anyway.

Thanks.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.