[ksauce]

Hey All,

So after finally double checking all the layouts and having everything look right I drilled the fore end of the HS-404 end. Unfortunately, the drill slipped a bit and the top of the two center holes that hold HS-405 in place now looks like a figure 8. I didn't go all the way through the forward spar but I did make a little crater in it. To me, it looks like a build on type of thing, but I wanted to get a second opinion.

Cheers,
Kevin

 

[G-force]

Disclaimer: check with vans, a tech councler or A/P...but I would probaly see if you can use a -3 bolt in that. That should clean up most of that boogered up hole. Also, I notice the corners on that front spar where the bend is looks pretty squared off...if you look at detail A-A on DWG 3 I believe those corners should have a half round radius. IIRC, there is nothing in the verbage, only on the drawing about doing this. David has a good picture of this detail on his site at http://users.pandora.be/rv8/Web pages/construction/Empennage/empennage.html

 

[ksauce]

Another pic

Mike, thanks for the heads up on the forward spar. I checked the plans and the construction log and I couldn't find mentioning of putting a radius on there. But I looked at the site you provided as well as DanC's site and noted the radii. Hmm...

Back to the original quandry, I did send the photos to Van's. Hopefully they'll get back to me quickly. I took the skin off and got a better photo.

I can also see that the top hole is a bit elongated as well. If I stick a -4 rivet in it wiggles quite freely. Thoughts?

Kevin

 

[RV8RIVETER]

You can easily repair the mistake by taking a piece of scrap and making a doubler plate to sandwhich the effected holes. Simply make sure extends to the "good" holes on each side or make the doubler from angle scrap and rivet verticle of angle to bulkhead. That will work fine.

You can also fill the elongated hole with JB weld when you install the "sandwhich" if you want to go the extra mile.

No worries.

 

[ksauce]

Thanks for the info. That's what Ken said to do as well. So, to be clear I'll make a plate that spans all 4 rivets on the 404 side and a plate that spans the center to rivets on the 405 side. For good measure I'll stick some JB Weld on the very top hole (HS-404, HS-702, HS-710, HS-810) that has a little bit of wiggle room for an AD4 rivet.

Kevin

You can easily repair the mistake by taking a piece of scrap and making a doubler plate to sandwhich the effected holes. Simply make sure extends to the "good" holes on each side or make the doubler from angle scrap and rivet verticle of angle to bulkhead. That will work fine.

You can also fill the elongated hole with JB weld when you install the "sandwhich" if you want to go the extra mile.

No worries.

 

[RV8RIVETER]

Kevin

Well, I won't argue with Ken, especially if he agrees with me. But, I am not sure you need a plate for the 2 center holes on the spar side. The JB weld will fill the "crater". But then again it wouldn't hurt to put it in.

But don't rivet the elongated hole until the JB sets up. Once you get the doublers made, go ahead and install the plates, glue, and rivets, then set all of the other rivets, but do not set the "boogered" one. If you drive the rivet before the JB is hard it will squash out of round in the hole and end up shorter than the others. Let the JB set-up good and hard, then come back and shoot it. If you put a bit too much JB in you may need to clamp the part where the rivet is to make sure it is all pulled down flush. If the rib flange looks good and flat , that is good enough.

And be aware you are now in good company. The only difference between a newbie and an old timer is learning how to fix mistakes.

 

[ksauce]

And be aware you are now in good company. The only difference between a newbie and an old timer is learning how to fix mistakes.

I was always taught bang to fit, paint to match.

 

[GAHco]

Fix

From the looks of the pics, I would cleco the top and bottom hole,

Take a unibit on the ugly hole until it was all cleaned up.

Shoot 470AD-5-?'s above and below the ugly hole.

Patching over it would make you deel better, but me thinks that the top and bottom rivet are the ones that really do the work. With one 1/8" rivet on the bottom and two 5/32" on the top you have more than made up for it.

At for the unibit work, its just a lightening hole.

Just my idea, do what you think is best.