miyu1975

miyu1975

Well Known Member
I am just getting started building. Currently putting together the tool box practice kit. I am attempting to dimple using the pneumatic squeezer. I think I need to dial it in some how and close the gap. But I haven't a clue how to do this...anyone?..thx
 
Just as you do with the c-frame to reach the dimpling table height ... you can add thin and thick small washers under the dies to close the distance.
 
If you have an adjustable set holder, just extend it and turn it where you want it. (Keep the fingers out of the way!)

If you do not have an adjustable set holder.....Get an adjustable set holder!

The adjustable one makes a pneumatic squeezer worth having. Without it, you will find reasons not to use what I consider the most valuable luxury tool you can have while building an RV.

Avery sells them! http://www.averytools.com/pc-471-13-adjustable-set-holder-for-pneumatic-squeezers.aspx
 
ishams kit

i have the isham kit it came with the adjutable set holder if you bought his kit you should have one
 
I had an adjustable set holder on mine. I would extend the piston out all the way and adjust the holder so the dies just touched. Worked very well for me that way. The washers are, indeed, for accomplishing this without the adjustable set holder. But you will never be without an adjustable once you have one, as previously mentioned. Makes adjustments a breeze.

Roberta
 
thx...I will look for the adjustable set holder as I did buy the kit from Isham. Probably one of those items I set aside scratching my head and wondering what it was for. I have a lot to learn.
 
I bought the Isham kit (16 months ago) and it did not have the adjustable set so you should check to see whether that was part of your kit. I've been just using the washers and they worked fine.

greg
 
I did have the adjustable thingy and put it on..all is well...toolbox construction complete...not perfect, but completed.
 
make a table

I assume most people did the same but I did a number of squeeze test on rivets of the various sizes and built a table of the number of turns on the adjustable set from fully closed (jaws touching) for each size. My set had flats on the side so it was easy to set the number of turns.
Made it a bit quicker to set up and a quick test (I assume you have a rivet gauge) of the first rivet made sure the settings were correct.

example
426 3-3.5 1.5 turns etc
 
I simply set the jaws to slightly less than the rivet length and then take 2 or 3 adjustments to squeeze the first rivet. After that, you just need to make sure that you keep the position as the adjuster WILL turn. The setting can be critical, especially with longer -4 rivets. If you set the jaws too close, the rivet won't set as you are not far enough round the cam to get the leverage.

You just need to keep your fingers clear and away from the trigger whilst adjusting. 120psi and steel sets make for short and painful work of finger tips - ask me how I know this!.....:eek:

Other than that - best tool in the shed.

Best Regards from ol' Nine Fingers
 
Dave,

I have been suggesting your procedure on this forum for years. The first time I used a rivet of a given size, I marked the # of turns to back off right on the rivet container so I don't have to look for a chart. I run the rivet set up snug to take any slop out of the system, then back off the specified # of turns.

I suppose someone could post their list to give others a base for starting then confirm for their own use. Since you have a chart already, how about posting your numbers?
 
RScott said:
Dave,

I have been suggesting your procedure on this forum for years. The first time I used a rivet of a given size, I marked the # of turns to back off right on the rivet container so I don't have to look for a chart. I run the rivet set up snug to take any slop out of the system, then back off the specified # of turns.

I suppose someone could post their list to give others a base for starting then confirm for their own use. Since you have a chart already, how about posting your numbers?
Click to expand...

Didn't think about marking on rivet drawer, good idea. Next time I go to the hanger I will get the list and post
 
pneumatic squeezer

The pneumatic squeezer only works in a very small range. I took mine to Avery Tools to be repaired after another builder had told me it did not work. Actually it worked great and there wasn?t a repair charge. He did talk me into the adjustable set holder and I love it.
Place a rivet on the squeezer, run it up until it hits, and then add washers one at a time until it squeezes a perfect rivet. Better yet, check with Avery tools he can explain better than I and is a great guy to talk to. He told me he gets calls all the time with the same issue
 
I got lazy the other day and did not put the nuts on the yoke bolts to save a minute of time because I was only squeezing a few rivets before switching yokes again. One of the bolts worked its way out while I was squeezing and my nice $70 adjustable ram snapped at the base of the threads. I finished the day using the standard ram with washers and ordered a new adjustable ram. That was the first time using the washer method for me and it will be the last!
 
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