T

tass

Well Known Member
I’m in the middle of swapping out my alternator with a b&c - the existing one wasn’t putting out enough juice, and also making quite a bit of noise on the headsets.

I just finished rearranging the firewall to fit the new regulator which tested fine.

However, I can’t figure out how to unbend the tabs on the current alternator mount so I can replace it with the new one. I can’t quite fit a slot screwdriver between the tabs and the bolt, and am afraid of rounding the bolt head if I try to just force them open by fitting a wrench as deep as I can get it.

Does anyone know any tricks? I haven’t tried too hard since I don’t want to damage anything, so maybe the trick is just to get in there and not be afraid.
 
A sharpened wood chisel would work to get the tap opened up enough for a screw driver. A heaver box cutter razor blade would work also with a hammer to get it started.
 
tass said:
... the trick is just to get in there and not be afraid.
Click to expand...

COMMIT!

You should be able to start a thin flat blade screw driver in between the bolt head and the washer "tab" - get it started and then flatten it out.
 
A small sharp cold chisel is a common method to bend the tab away from the bolt. Then a flat punch to straighten the tab.
 

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Thanks for the tips! A hammer and smaller screwdriver did the job, and the hammer on a mini pry bar flattened it out

I thought I’d be job done today but I can’t completely install the new mount without taking off the prop, and can’t do that on my own.
 
tass said:
Thanks for the tips! A hammer and smaller screwdriver did the job, and the hammer on a mini pry bar flattened it out

I thought I’d be job done today but I can’t completely install the new mount without taking off the prop, and can’t do that on my own.
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You sure about that? Have installed a few B&C’s on flying planes including the mounts. Never pulled the prop. Changing the alt belt, thats another story.
 
climberrn said:
You sure about that? Have installed a few B&C’s on flying planes including the mounts. Never pulled the prop. Changing the alt belt, thats another story.
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I have electronic ignition, and the bolt that mounts behind the flywheel is covered by the sensor housing. So, that needs to come off first.
It's possible I can undo it all without taking the prop off but it's such a tight squeeze back there I suspect I'll screw it up or at least hurt myself.

Then, I'm sure it's going to turn out that the belt isn't quite long enough once I've gone through all the pain ;)
(it's funny how every job that I think will take 2 days ends up taking 3 weeks)
 
tass said:
I have electronic ignition, and the bolt that mounts behind the flywheel is covered by the sensor housing. So, that needs to come off first.
It's possible I can undo it all without taking the prop off but it's such a tight squeeze back there I suspect I'll screw it up or at least hurt myself.

Then, I'm sure it's going to turn out that the belt isn't quite long enough once I've gone through all the pain ;)
(it's funny how every job that I think will take 2 days ends up taking 3 weeks)
Click to expand...
Definitely! My POS alternator failed in a big way 5 hour drive from home. I had to install the B&C among most other electronics including both P-Mags, screens, engine monitor module, AP head, etc. in the plane away from home. When I started the plane, the alternator was not charging!! Made the decision to fly home on battery power (about an hour flight) and deal with it in the hangar. Forgot to wire one of the power inputs to the regulator. Nothing goes as easy as planned.
 
Got it done (well the hard bit, anyway!) - I still need to get back in and finish connecting the cockpit-side wires before testing it.

It turned out I needed a longer belt. I replaced the existing 7355 with the 7360 which came with the kit.

Having the prop off also gave me the opportunity to clean up a bit of the baffling I wasn't happy with, and made it much easier to get in there and run a new 8 gauge wire to replace the existing 10 gauge shielded one. I figured 8 gauge would future proof me for any alternator up-size in the future, even though 10 gauge in such a short run is probably fine for more than 40 amps.
 
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