RudiGreyling

RudiGreyling

Well Known Member
Hi Guys,

I need some info and some photos.

I am trying to figure out how to fit the standard fuel senders in the second fuel bay, because I will fit a flop tube in the first for inverted fuel system.

The plans is not very clear on this drawing 16A.

The way I see it that baffle is way to thin to countersink and fit rivets for the platenuts.

How did you guys do it? Did you make some kind of doubler or spacer?

Thanks,
Rudi
sender_mount_normal_fuel_system.jpg

sender_mount_inverted_fuel_system.jpg
 
NAS1097 rivets

Whenever installing nutplates on material .032" or thinner, I always use NAS1097AD3-3.5 rivets. They have a shallower head than an AN426 rivet and don't require as deep a countersink.

But even so, if you're installing the float in the 2nd bay, you're gonna want to reinforce the baffle with a doubler ring anyway, right? (say yes) Make that doubler ring .040" and install the nutplates on it and not the baffle. Or, dimple the baffle, c-sink the ring.

Just some ideas that might help you out.

)_( Dan
RV-7 N714D (725 hours)
http://www.rvproject.com
 
Doubler is a great idea

Dan,

A doubler is a great idea. I was trying to figure this out for a QB tank. The thought of having to get the proseal in the right place working through a small hole was not an appealing prospect. Using a doubler- cut in half to get it in - is a great idea; minimal number of holes in the baffle (and swarf in the tank), proseal plate nuts on the bench, then stick doubler in with proseal and screw on fuel sender.

Thanks, Pete
 
This what I did. No doubler but with the sender placed close to the Z bracket, it is very stable

Jim Kinsey
7A Wings


picture2081kq.jpg
 
Hi Guys,

thanks for the tips.

I think I will double it, maybe cut my left over T-408, since the holes are already correct for the fuel sender.

I'll take pictures and post here later..It might help someone else in the future.

Kind regards,
Rudi
 
Ok here is what I did.

I took the T-408 cover and cut it up. You will need to order a T-411 in anycase for inverted setup so you have one spare.
tank_07.jpg


I cut mine 5 sided cause it was easier than using my flycutter to do a circle. Just make sure you mark the orientation for Top, these holes are not evenly spaced and you want to make sure the sender fit right side up.
tank_08.jpg


Test fit your Z bracket and leave enough clearence for the sender holes, mark your tank baffle.
tank_10.jpg


<SNIP> Continue on next post
 
<SNIP> Continue from previous...

Use a fly cutter to cut the center out and align and drill the rivet & screw holes.
tank_11.jpg


Test fit the Fuel Sender unit. If you are going to use the round black rubber gasket the screws might be short. Check the length before you close the baffle.
tank_12.jpg


I'm not saying this is the right way, but I did it my way and hope it helps you.

Kind Regards
Rudi
 
I also need to add this update, Vans builder support came back on my query to them, a bit late :eek:...They say countersink and rivet nutplates directly on the baffle :confused:.

Well it may be OK, but I like my method better.:D

You make up your own mind.

Regards
Rudi
 
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