[bruceh]

I'm trying to fabricate some of the static line attach clips on DWG 25.

Brief instructions on the plans:
1/4" inside dia. clip
Make from .025 X 5/8 X 1 3/4

I cut a couple of 5/8" wide strips out with snips from the miscellaneous bundle of scraps in the kit. I'm trying to wrap this strip around a 1/4" drill rod and create the nice "P" shape in the drawing, but my attempts are looking pretty sad. More of a tear drop than a "P".

Does anyone with some metal bending experience have any pointers on technique for making these with simple hand tools?

Are there other options for running the static line forward securely and simply? I'm assuming that Van's thinks there is too much distance between the bulkheads to allow the static line to sag. Would drilling a couple of small holes in the longerons on the top flange be OK to put either an adel clamp or zip tie work?

 

[terrye]

Clips

These clips are much like the fuel tank vent line clips. I made these with a drill rod, vice and pliers but they were a pain in the *** to make. 2024-T3 is very strong with lots of springback so needs lots of "persuading"

You might try some AN742 plain clamps from Aircraft Spruce. The attach hole will be bigger than the rivet so you will probably have to use a washer to buck the rivet onto.

http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/appages/an742.php

 

[flion]

Ok, here's one way. You'll need an old broad chisel, a piece of angle iron (say, 1"x2") and 1/4" rod (old drill bit is fine but you want enough length to accommodate the width of the chisel and a couple of clamps). Grind the chisel so the blade has about a 1/8" radius where the sharp edge was. Cut your strip of aluminum to the proper width and long enough that there is extra material. Make about a 180 degree bend around the drill rod. I find that I can get a fair bend by hand and if there is a slight out-of-round at the back of the bend, I can correct it by tapping the drill bit into the corner of the angle with the stock wrapped around it. Now clamp the drill bit/stock into the corner of the angle so that one side of the stock rests on the wide (2") face of the angle. Using the chisel and a hammer, press the other side of the stock down against the bit and angle. You don't need to be so perfect that the clip ends lay flat against each other; you will probably need to open them up like an adel clamp anyway. Once you've got it good enough, clamp the ends together and trim and drill to finish. Drill your pilot hole undersize for a good fit.

 

[RickWoodall]

Clips

There is an electrical firm called Grote that makes nice little plastic clips that do this job beautifully. There are also small plastic pads with sticky on one side that have holes through for zip ties. Both of these are available at Home Depot and or auto supply places. Dont have pics handy, can provide if needed but they work GREAT and are cheap. No need to fab from scratch
If you havent looked, safe air makes a really nice static kit with quick connects and it makes the whole system about as easy to do as hooking up a new garden hose.

 

[BillC]

Bruce,

I bet what you have is probably just fine but, if you are still in doubt bring a sample with you Saturday and we can compare yours with mine. Not that mine are perfect but they have worked just fine for the past 3 years.

 

[rzbill]

These can be easy

If done as follows:

I did not use .025. I used the 1/2" wide strips of .020 scrap supplied with the kit shipment. Deburr the whole strip on the scotchbrite wheel prior to cutting into short lengths.

The standard tool (purchased or home made) for bending this "P" shape is 2 parallel rods (1/4" diameter in this case) spaced apart by the sheet gage (.020" in my case).

I used 2 long AN4 bolts (head cut off) clamped in a vise and spaced apart with a couple of pieces of .020 scrap. An allegator clamp on the top of the bolts helped hold them tight together.

Slide your stock into the gap, do the reverse bend (the short leg of the "P") first, than then form the loop and long leg. Remove from the "tool", use an allegator clamp to hold the legs and drill #40. Replace allegator with #40 cleco and use the cleco as a grip for deburring the ends of the legs on the scotchbrite wheel.

Done. You can knock out a big handful of these in less than an hour, including setting up the vise.

 

[C-GRVT]

or this for a different idea

found on the RV Hotline under Builder's Tips:
quote
"I saw this on Warren Starkebaum's plane today. It's the clip he's spaced every 8 or 9 inches or so to hold his static line in place as it makes its way forward under the longeron. The Van's instructions feature a little piece of .032, curled at an end and riveted through the skin and that certainly works too. But this arrangement looks much nicer."


Go to
http://rvbuildershotline.com/archives/2008/20080628.html for a picture.
I did a similar thing, with the hole sized for a rubber grommet to pass the line through.
Bill Brooks
Ottawa Canada
RV-6A finishing kit

 

[bruceh]

Great ideas!

Lots of great ideas from everyone. I'll give them all a try when I get back out to the shop and report back.

The two rod bending idea had come to mind, but I didn't get a chance to try this yet. Using a short piece of angle and a rounded off chisel also looks like it would work well.
I'm thinking that using thinner material than .025 would also help.
The angled attachment in the RV hotline article looks very easy. (I have a small sheet metal bending brake).

BillC: I will definitely come by your hanger on Saturday.

 

[JakeLewis22]

Here is quick and easy way using left over fuselage J stiffener.

1. I set up a fence on the band saw to cut the width. Using the fence allows you to make multiple cuts very quickly.

2. Using a body hammer and dolly I flatten the J stiffener without touching the end.

3. Then I use a pair of duckbill pliers (with duct tape over the jaws) to hold the J stiffener while I roll it around a 1/4" drill bit.

4. Cut the tab to length and drill the rivet hole.