[APilot4Fun]

I'm making the bend on the trailing edge of the rudder using the 2x8 brake. I've been able to close the angle a bit but seem to have come to a point that the skin doesn't want to fold beyond. Should the skin be folded completely to the angle that it fits, without having to flex closed the skin, onto the rudder frame? What should the final angle be? I'm a bit nervous about pushing on the skin any harder.

Craig
8A

 

[rvbuilder2002]

I'm making the bend on the trailing edge of the rudder using the 2x8 brake. I've been able to close the angle a bit but seem to have come to a point that the skin doesn't want to fold beyond. Should the skin be folded completely to the angle that it fits, without having to flex closed the skin, onto the rudder frame? What should the final angle be? I'm a bit nervous about pushing on the skin any harder.

The answer is Yes, as much as possible it should exactly fit the rudder substructure or else it will pillow out along the trailing edge. This can (actually, will) cause the flight control to not fuction as intended.

The final angle should be whatever is required to match the ribs.

 

[G-force]

till the stiffeners hit, thats as far as I could bend mine. Was still a little sprung open wider then the framework, but not much.

 

[Mel]

There is a way to bend "beyond" when the stiffeners meet. But you must be carefull. Put a layer of duct tape on your seaming pliers and gently pinch the trailing edge radius between the stiffeners. When everything is correct, you should be able to lay a straight edge from top to bottom of the surface and slide it all the way to the trailing edge without gaps. There should be absolutely NO spring back from the spar. The .016 control surfaces on my -6 have been flying since May of '93 with no cracks. There are no "false" ribs or RTV inside.

 

[APilot4Fun]

Bend Complete!

Hi All,

I've used the seaming pliers technique and that did the trick. I noticed how easy it could be to go too far doing this. Keeping the flats of the seamer right at the bend and not too far onto the skin is the key to success. I threw a hand towel over the skin to protect the surface and gave a little squeeze (don't go nuts here) to the pliers all the way across the trailing edge. Took a few seconds and worked like a charm. The skin, now clecoed onto the frame, is super flat. Thanks for the replies.

Craig Ward
Morris Plains, NJ

 

[panhandler1956]

Timely

This was a timely post for me as I am at the same point with my rudder. I bent it with the home-made sheetmetal beak, even had to stand on it while my son watched to be sure the stiffners weren't getting into the opposite skin. It wasn't laying against the spar without springing back so I used the hand-seamer technique that MEL mentioned in this post and it worked great. I used a towel and was very careful, doing just a little bit of squeeze each time until I had it where I wanted it. Now it lays against the spar without cleco's and is perfectly flat and straight.
Thanks Mel and thanks for asking the question Craig!

This forum has saved me some much frustration. Thanks Doug!!