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dwilson

Well Known Member
Just about ready to finish the elevators on my RV9.

How in the world do I get a buck bar behind the last two rivets on the trailing edge of the root and tip ribs? There just isn't any room in there for my pneumatic squeezer or any buck bar I have seen?


What did you all do????

Thanks,
Duane
 
There are a few ways

Duane,

Do a search of these pages, this topic has come up before.

There is a picture of how I did it on the bottom of my aileronweb page.
 
A "no hole" yoke on the squeezer works great for this.
If you can borrow one from a local builder you can squeeze them all in a few minutes.
 
DeltaRomeo said:
Hey Duane,

I used flush pop rivets on those last two holes...

Best,
Click to expand...

Thanks Doug,

Bit I don't know what "flush" pop rivets are. Are these standard "blind" rivets set in countersunk holes? Or are they a different beast altogether?

Duane
 
dwilson said:
Are these standard "blind" rivets set in countersunk holes? Or are they a different beast altogether?
Duane
Click to expand...
Yes, countersunk. See.....it's been a few years and I have already forgotten the name <grin>. I tried (like many) to buck 'em or come up with some fancy way to squeeze 'em.

After talking with some that are repeat builders I took their advice: pop rivet. No one will ever see it.

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Image courtesy www.BylerRivet.com ​




Best,
 
Last edited:
Pretty sure Van specs out CS-4-4's there.

I am sure you have them with your kit.

Personally, the no hole yoke is my weapon of choice.

Reeeeeaaaally slick!

;) CJ
 
The thin nosed no-hole squeezer yoke will do most. I used the MK-319-BS pulled rivets in a few places. Unlike the CS4-4's, they will fit into the same countersink as the regular -3 solid rivet.

William
RV-8QB just finished the empannage
 
Ummm yah... but now for the $20 question,

Which one (if not both) is/are a structural fastener?

First of all, I know it kinda doesn't matter and second of all...

I HAVEN'T GOT A CLUE!

:D CJ
 
Elevator TE rivets

Captain_John said:
Ummm yah... but now for the $20 question,

Which one (if not both) is/are a structural fastener?

First of all, I know it kinda doesn't matter and second of all...

I HAVEN'T GOT A CLUE!

:D CJ
Click to expand...

All rivets are structural fasteners (even pop rivets). The question is what loads can each type withstand. The loads on those rivets (at the TE of the elevator tip) are so low, it doesn't matter.

If I ever do this again, I will smear some JB Weld (or ProSeal) from the last drivable rivet to the end of the rib (after proper prep of course) and called it a done deal (then just fill the hole like you would a pop rivet).

I was able to drive solid rivets using a flat brick chisel (happened to have one laying around). I actually back-riveted them by laying the flush head on a back-rivet plate then sliding the chisel in against the rivet and used the rivet gun on the chisel. It was ugly but it worked.

Dennis Glaeser
7A Wings
 
Captain_John said:
Ummm yah... but now for the $20 question,

Which one (if not both) is/are a structural fastener?

First of all, I know it kinda doesn't matter and second of all...

I HAVEN'T GOT A CLUE!

:D CJ
Click to expand...


In the RV-9 plans, both for the rudder and elevators the plans provide the option of using the MK-319 BS in the trailing edge locations. Certainly a CS-4-4 would be stronger I assume, but the dimple would be much bigger, and nothing in my instructions indicate a CS-4-4 should be used instead of the MK-319. If you are really concerned about strength there or elsewhere, I think CherryMax rivets are about the strongest (please someone correct me if I'm wrong). They come in both flush and round head varieties, but (as far as I know) only in 1/8 or larger sizes.

Steve
 
Mk-319-bs

MK-319-BS: buy lots of 'em with your next order from Van's. Mighty handy for places further into the kit where bucking/squeezing risks more damage in the doing than fear of the Blind Rivet Police, or where you got stupid and closed access after overlooking a rivet installation (don't ask how I know!), or where no no-hole yoke can reach. Fill the hole with an epoxy slurry, trim flush, and they're virtually impossible to distinguish from the ANs. The CS rivets are 1/8 inch and look real clunky in a line of 3/32s, and they don't appear as flat after pulling as the MKs.

There's no structural concern with an occasional popper. Van's even says so somewhere in the instructions. Especially don't be concerned over the most aft rivets in the elevators. If that worrys you, you're gonna sweat pea goobers when you see only six 3/8 bolts holding the engine mount to a few 1/8 rivets attaching the the drive train (and gear for a tail dragger) to the airplane. :p

John Siebold
 
The CS4-4 rivets are called out in a couple of different places on the elevator that would seem have a lot more potential load than the back end of the tip rib, and on page 6-10 of the RV-8 manual it says "The rivets that fall inside the closed elevator must be blind rivets; either CS4-4 or MK-319BS." I'm very cautious about substituting fasteners, but I think this is well within "Van's approved" parameters.

William
 
dwilson said:
Just about ready to finish the elevators on my RV9.

How in the world do I get a buck bar behind the last two rivets on the trailing edge of the root and tip ribs? There just isn't any room in there for my pneumatic squeezer or any buck bar I have seen?


What did you all do????

Thanks,
Duane
Click to expand...


Here's how I set those rivets. Follow the link for the details.

Special Bucking bars

2005-05-29_18-47-51.jpg
 
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