RidiculousM

Well Known Member
While trimming my forward deck for the Showplanes mod, I put a fairly decent scratch in it. How do I remove it? Sand, buff, polish, scotch-brite, etc...?

I already tried to remove the sister scratch from the other side of the piece I was cutting using a scotch-brite pad, 1000, 1200, and 1500 grit sandpaper but it doesn't quite go deep enough to remove it. Ultimately, I intend on painting the plane.

Any suggestions or tips would be appreciated.

Thanks,
Mike

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If you plan on painting the plane you can use many types of fillers from epoxy's to automotive two part fillers. There are fillers that are designed just for scratches that you can buy at auto body paind stores or do what I did, mix some West System Epoxy with West fillers, you will never see it when your done.
 
I would recommend you remove the scraftch if it's thru the clad, not cover it up. I would use scotch brite pads on a high speed, start with the coarser red and then finish with the fine blue then treat it with alodine.
 
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Depending how deep it is, I would not personally sand it all the way out. I would sand with some 320 grit dry paper then a little scotch brite to round all the edges. then I would fill it with an aluminum filled epoxy such as JB weld . Prior to filling it you should alodine the area where the alclad was removed. Sand the filler then prime it with Zinc chromate. It will disappear when you paint.
 
Thanks for the replies, great info. I think I'm going to lightly sand, scotch-brite, clean, and then JB Weld it.

Instead of using scotch-brite pads by hand, how can I use them mechanically? What size/brand orbital buffer/polisher? Will attaching a scotch-brite pad to a mighty mouse work or is that too much?

Thanks,
Mike
 
Two inch roloc scotchbrite disks in a cheap HF angle die grinder should do the job...

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You might need the brown coarser ones first before the maroon ones.
 
Burnishing

Is there a reason no one ever mentions burnishing as a way to reduce scratches before polishing?

Dave A.
6A build
 
Generally speaking, burnishing leaves the bottom of the flaw but smooths over the top of it. It's best to cut down and eliminate the flaw itself, since that's what can grow over time to become a detectable crack.

Dave