U

uuacallis

Member
So I am working on the Vertical Stabilizer for the -12 and noted today that unless the #30 hole is one that I have final drilled/or match drilled (like in the rear spar), the LP4-3 rivets won't fit in there.

So for example, no where in the instructions does it claim you need to final drill all the #30 holes on the flanges, but I suspect that unless I do that I won't be fitting these rivets.

Can someone confirm if you had to do that?

Also, I have been re-reading section 5 over and over again, and haven't seen it.
 
Yes the holes are all prepunched slightly smaller than final size so will will all need to be final drilled and deburred. When final drilling make sure to drill it in assembly with whatever it will be riveted to.

Not sure about the 12 but in general vans sometimes leaves this out, especially as you get farther along. They take it as a given.
 
Thanks for the quick reply, glad my suspicions were correct (except for the fact that I have to go drill and deburr like 1000 holes!)
 
Final drilling of the #30 holes is almost never required.

An ice pick or awl wiggled in the hole almost always solves the issue.

If, after trying the ice pick / awl, the rivet still won't go in, try a different rivet.

Then if all elce fails use a reamer.

Anyway, that is what has worked for me.

Also, Vans says that the rivet holes again almost always do not need to be deburred. The 0.020 skins are very easy to over debur, knife edging / enlarging the hole and causing a definite problem.

Generally, with this kit less is more.

-Dave
 
Ice pick / awl - is this something I can likely pick up at lowes / Home Depot or should I place another order on Avery tools site (because one wasn't included in Cleveland's kit)
 
I've found that a center punch works well also if the it comes to a small enough tapered point.
 
If a rivet will not go into an individual hole (like checking a single hole in the stab spar) it is possible the part has some holes that are just a thousandth or two under ideal diameter (it can happen when punch tools begin to dull, etc.)

If the problem only exists when you are inserting rivets through multiple parts, then it is a hole alignment problem were a tapered pin/awl can be helpful.
 
Ice pick, awl etc.

The tool that I liked best for this comes in a pack of four picks at any auto parts store. There will be one with 90 deg. point, one curved point, one straight point and another. The straight point is perfect for aligning holes. I found that having more than one was sometimes handy.

Paul Eeds
120406
 
Center punch

I was lucky enough to find a center punch that has a 1/8? shaft that slowly tapers to a point. Great for making small alignment adjustments ... when the center punch slides into the rivet hole, you can be confident the parts are correctly aligned.

Love tools that multitask.
 
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