If your goal is to sped things up, then a single-hole demurring bit (Cleavaland has them) stuck in a cheap electric screwdriver is a GREAT way to do a lot of holes in a short time in a non-overly-aggressive manner. If I need to do the back side of a hole, I like the Shaviv “S”-shaped bits - that tool comes out of the drawer occasionally, but when it’s needed, its really needed.There used to be lots of pots here about EZ-burs...mostly about how folks had broken them. You find lots of the larger sizes for sale in the flymarts at the big shows, built the#30 and #40 are rare finds - my guess is because the small ones break before they wear out.
If your goal is to sped things up, then a single-hole demurring bit (Cleavaland has them) stuck in a cheap electric screwdriver is a GREAT way to do a lot of holes in a short time in a non-overly-aggressive manner. If I need to do the back side of a hole, I like the Shaviv “S”-shaped bits - that tool comes out of the drawer occasionally, but when it’s needed, its really needed.There used to be lots of posts here about EZ-burs...mostly about how folks had broken them. You find lots of the larger sizes for sale in the flymarts at the big shows, built the#30 and #40 are rare finds - my guess is because the small ones break before they wear out.
The trick with the ez burr is to adjust the "bite" on some scrap first. Once your happy with a light bite go at it. It makes quick work of large pieces. After you might have to follow up a few stubborn holes with manual tool or an additional pass w the ez burr.
or a thumb vixen file on thin stuff.
I have used them for 40 years, and have them all the way up to 3/4". My day job is a structural specialist for heavy aircraft, and I spent a lot of time working with B737 thin skin failure issues. To the layman, de-burring is a magical novelty that yields a smooth beautifully produced hole, however in thin materials it can be problematic. Think of it this way..the skin/structure transfers load through the fastener into the adjacent structure aka, "bearing strength". When holes are de-burred, the area of the bearing surface is reduced and the condition of knife edging is increased, resulting in fastener movement/failure. In reality, we only try and remove the burr caused by drilling that interferes with stck-up. I have seen folks get really overboard and end up with a hole that has a small countersink on both sides. Those de-burr tools are great for in situ work where access is limited. I actually prefer to de-burr with scotchbrite, a 6 flute countersink with my fingers, or a thumb vixen file on thin stuff.
I have the Ezburr tools also ,,
I have often thought about the tool taking to much material out but as a new builder just used what was easy , I just hit the thin material quick and light , will try the scotchbrite method
I use a under sized bite for drilling then reamer bits for final size and holes are nice and tight sometimes when i deburr it opens holes to much ! Also use the reamer for match drilling