W

william weesner

install the .020 shims under the cowl hinges
 
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shims

the reason for the shims is that the fiberglass cowl is thicker than the skin
on the fus. therefore the hinges need to be displased so that the surfaces
match
 
Besides what Ted mentioned, the pins are loose 'cause you are putting an 0.090 pin in an 0.125 hinge and this makes the cowl lift up somewhat. Shimming pulls the cowl in a bit.

Roberta
 
Yes and No....

If I remember correctly, I made shims for each one of the hinge segments. Then when I went to install the cowl, I found that I actually had to remove some of them to bring the outside mold-lines even. I think that the plans said shims "as required", and I don't think you can tell with abolute certianty in advance if they are required. Cut and fit, cut and fit...it is acustom building job... ;)

Paul
 
I didnt shim mine. It fits and looks nice on the ground but at 180 mph I can see that it lifts up at least .035 or more. The first time that I noticed I landed and thought I forgot to install the hinge wire. I helped a friend install his hinge one day. It pushed very hard and that is when I relised that he still had the .125 wire in it. I put the .090 as plan called for.

Jim
 
I used a caliper to compare the skin+firewall flange to the cowl thickness. Using that as a judge, I used no shim along the bottom (due to the thick bottom skin) and 0.16 along the tops and sides. I didn't think about the undersized hinge pin along the top. I may get the same bulging problem.

I haven't riveted everything together yet, so I'm not sure how it will work out. Seems pretty good at the cleco stage.

Dave
 
I used shims and EXTRUDED HINGE [ MS20001-5] I then bought stainless welding rod ever so slightly smaller than the standard .090 wire. This enables ease of wire fitting , a better stronger hinge with less lift/play in flight .
One of my better ideas if I say so myself.
 
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