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idleup

Well Known Member
When I cleco the C-702 skin on the WD-716 canopy frame there is a huge gap between the skin and the aft tube of the WD-716 near the ends on both sides where the skin wont touch the tube. I cannot seem to find any resources on this and do not see how to get it to lay on it without lifting up in the center... Please help.
 
I wanted to follow up on my post with some pictures. I saw a message in the archive from 2003 that Steve Sampson posted about his RV-9 having the same problem and Ken Scott told him it was welded incorrectly. So I wanted to post some pictures to find out if everyone elses has the same issue as mine or if mine is also welded incorrectly. You can see that the skin has prepunched holes above the tube but there is a 3/8" gap between the rivet hole in the skin and the tube...

canopy-2.jpg

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canopy-1.jpg

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Here is what the tube looks like welded to the side, doesnt look right...
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canopy-3.jpg

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canopy-4.jpg

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All of the ones I have seen (including mine) are that way. I didn't use at least the last two, maybe three, rivet holes there. Some people shim the space or fill it with epoxy or jb weld...
 
Matt

I had the same problem...I followed the Dan C fix and used some shims. It worked out great.

Frank @ SGU RV7A "NDY"
 
Matt

I also would say be very maticulous on this part of the build. Read ahead in the instructions and follow them closely. Be very patient, think a head before you proceed, check out Dan's, Jeff Bordelons, and others web sites. I know we can get real anal about the longeron to canopy fit but I believe it tells alot about our craftmenship during the rest of the build. Building the canopy for me was the most challenging so far. It was almost like pushing a string from behind to get it to move a head. The trick is to determine the front of the string and pull it a head. Obvious with a string ....not so with the canopy.
Good Luck and success as you move ahead......CAREFULLY!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Frank @ sgu RV7A "NDY"
 
SHIM LIKE YOU NEVER SHIMMED BEFORE

I too had the same problem. Had to shim and then filled with epoxy and balloons. Worked out fine.

I checked Van's RV-7A and found that the welded tube on the prototype isn't welded in the same location as on the production and didn't require a shim.

Also Vans RV-7A canopy top skin is dimpled for the countersunk blind rivets and the tube isn't machine countersunk. So the dimples ride on the tube and the skin is actually not in contact with the tube.

I machine countersunk the skin and filled and sanded the rivets.

Be prepared to shim in several spots on the canopy frame. I had a least 4 tapered shims to get things to fit well.


Food for thought
 
Maybe I am confused, but how do you shim 3/8" and have a rivet go that far down into the tube?
 
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I shimmed the frame of my RV6 - but only by 1/8" on the last hole on each side. The RV6 instructions say not to carry the rivets all the way down the skin and just let it find it's own shape. Presumably because there is a funky and variable gap between the skin and the weldment in this area. Not sure what the RV7 instructions say. I'll post some pictures when I have time.
Jim Sharkey
 
Here is the view from the outside. The shimmed rivet is the one above the upper philips screw head.
Jim Sharkey
shimmedfromoutsideln2.jpg
 
Canopy Frame

Matt - I received your private message re the canopy frame and thought it as easy to reply here. I have not found my own message from '03 but then I have not looked so hard.

It is amazing how problems of the past get overwritten by problems of the present. I am now building a -4 (having sold the -9A) and that is MUCH more problematic. I cant go and look at the -9a I built to compare with yours.

To get to the point, yes I remember I did have a problem with the canopy frame. It was one of the least well fitting bits of the kit. I solved it with shims. From memory it was 3 or 4 holes on each side. From memory the worst gap was no more than .25" though that is not so good.

I am not sure if it was a problem with my frame or that they are all like that. VANS dont seem to change a missmade part unless the pressure gets pretty severe.

The good news was that once it was shimmed it seemed very servicable. A bit ugly perhaps if you looked in detail ....but you dont see it normally.

Sorry not to remember more. Hope that helps!

PS The thing I do remember was that there is an extra kit to stiffen up the canopy frame underneath that skin. It transformed a jelly into a much more sturdy structure with very little extra weight. If it is still an option do spend the money on it. It cost and weighed little and achieved a lot.
 
Liquid shim

Liquid shim worked for me.
Particularly due to the tapered shape.
Check recent threads on the subject.

Bruce W.
 
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