R

RV4Gregg

I'm New Here
Hello!

I am setting up my shop for future arrival of RV4 pieces. I have a small pancake air compressor, but realize that it is insufficient, when tasked with repeatedly bangin' rivets...

Anyone have suggestions on air compressors? I am looking at the 60 gallon, 3.2hp stand up that Sears Craftsman makes.

I have lots of sheet metal experience, but I have always worked in a production type environment, with MASSIVE compressors. I would really appreciate some insight, to get me with the right a/c.

Thanks!

Gregg
 
I have really enjoyed my 60gal. stand up Ingersoll Rand in my garage. It runs rarely, even with heavy consumers.
 
Comressor recomendation

OK, get ready..
This is one of those posts that draws a ton of comments! I built my -4 and and do a LOT of metal work on G/A birds in cluding painting...I have your basic 5hp Ingersol,60gal. configuration. You can get the same basic product at any Home Depot or Lowes aviation improvement center for $500 or less..It will be ALL YOU NEED and some. A die grinder/sander will draw the highest CFM, and will do fine.The rivet gun and drill dont use much air at all. The biggest recomendation I can give to you is put it outside or somewhere away from your shop if possible and run 1/2" PVC to your work area. Mine is in my garage on the otherside of my hangar (airpark hangar house) and I cant hear it at all. I actually had it in my attic above my garage in my old house. You will love the peace and quiet even know it doesnt run that hard...good luck!

Bill E.
RV-4 paint prep
 
I'm in the same boat as you and went to home depot to research models. Husky has a new compressor out that is a two stage, sixty gallon, 3.2 hp, 240V compressor for 399. It also has a silencer on each intake. When I saw the price I thought for certain they made a mistake but I asked twice and was told it is correct. The model number is a VH6314. It's very similar to the VT6314 that is better known around these parts. It's not listed on Husky's or Home Depot's website yet, so you may want to check at your local HD.

Kevin
 
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I am in the collecting tool stage, and just finished the practice kits using a sears pro model horizontal 25 gal oil lubed that I purchased used, so my expeirence is limited on the RV building. But this week I have had a crew over putting on a new roof to the house, and they have been using it for their 4 nail guns going all at the same time with no problems. It was quiet enough to carry on a converstation while standing next to it, and it is portable. So I believe that it will work fine for me. My other alternative was to run some air hose over to the State Capitol for some free air, but trying to cool it down would have been a problem.

Did I say free air? I mean expensive air...
 
I bought the same compressor as Kevin from Home Depot. That was three years ago and at the same price. Started building at home then moved to hanger where I and my hanger mate have used the compressor to complete two aircraft RV9A and Mustang II. Never had any problems with compressor and it's still going strong.
 
I have a 60gal Lowes (i.e. Kobalt) compressor that's been chugging like a champ for 2 years. I love it, it keeps up with everything I throw at it and it's relatively quiet. It also runs on 220, which is a pain but I happened to have the 220 there anyhow. I would buy it again.

Here's something to think about, though. It takes quiet some time to charge that sucker up. Sometimes I just want to do a quick 5 minutes of work but have to wait for it to fill...it takes a while.

I've been keeping my eye out for a small, used 25gal oil lubbed compressor for the small jobs. Let's face it, during the week I don't have a lot of time to build so everything is small jobs :)
 
Compressed Air + PVC = BAD

fixnflyguy said:
<snip>
...put it outside or somewhere away from your shop if possible and run 1/2" PVC to your work area.
</snip>
Click to expand...

Putting the compressor outside or out of the shop is a great idea - using PVC for compressed air is not.

PVC works great for compressed air until it gets old & brittle - then when it fails, it fails violently. The first time you give a good yank on the hose and the line breaks it sprays plastic shards everywhere. The main reason for this is that compressed air stores energy - water at the same pressure doesen't store nearly the same potential.

Most local codes and OSHA don't allow PVC for compressed air piping above ground unless it is shielded by something that can withstand the force of a rupture.

OSHA PVC Bulletin

Just FYI...
 
WOW...

thanks for all the prompt responses. I am somewhat of a Craftsman, and Matco tools kinda guy, but one of my tool boxes, is actually Husky Brand, from good ole' Home Depot. I have already placed a call into my area HD, and discovered they have a few in stock. Looks like I might own a new Compressor by Saturday.

Well, since I had such good luck with a/c thread, perhaps I should inquire about updating my drill press as well? Any recommendations there?
 
Lottsa this info is in old posts, but here is a quick (I hope) summary of the important stuff:

Compare compressors on the CFM output, not HP. Manufacturers lie about the HP. Check the CFM consumption of the heavy air users (die grinder is one of the biggest) & size your system for that.

Oilless direct drive vs. oil lubed, belt drive: Oil lubed, belt drive is generally considered to be quieter & last longer, although some say their oilless units are not loud.

PVC vs. copper & galvanized piping: Quite a few say they have used PVC with no problems, but others report seeing the stuff explode, shattering & sending pieces flying across the room. Copper and galvanized water pipe just split. There is a new water line material called PEX, basically a hose, that you might look into. In a water line application, it won't break (it stretches) when frozen and is reportedly quite strong. I have seen no discussion here about PEX, so it would be good for others if you tried & reported back :) .

See http://www.sharpe1.com/sharpe/sharpe.nsf/Page/Air+Piping+Layout for a diagram of how to set up your system, but note it is a bit of overkill for our applications.

Most come with a cheapie petcock on the bottom where they are hard to reach which discourages regular draining. Alternatives are to get an automatic drain from Harbor Freight or to replace the petcock with an elbow and a nipple to make a horizontal run to the edge of the tank, then reinstall the petcock or put in a real valve.

If you can't put it outside your work area and it is still noisy, check the belt guard and see if a little RTV can quiet the thing down. My belt guard comes in 2 halves & some insulation between the 2 cut the noise by about 30%. Two $4 lawm mower mufflers on the intakes cut the noise far enough more that I no longer use hearing protection when working around it.

Do not leave your compressor switched on when not in use. The motors are designed for intermittant duty cycle and if an air line breaks, the compressor comes on & runs until it burns up.

Dick Scott
RV-9A
Wings
 
The best compressors are oil-lubed, not oil-less. They are quieter (bigtime) and have a longer service life. You also need to look at their CFM at 90 psi. The higher the number the better.
 
RV4Gregg said:
WOW...

thanks for all the prompt responses. I am somewhat of a Craftsman, and Matco tools kinda guy, but one of my tool boxes, is actually Husky Brand, from good ole' Home Depot. I have already placed a call into my area HD, and discovered they have a few in stock. Looks like I might own a new Compressor by Saturday.

Well, since I had such good luck with a/c thread, perhaps I should inquire about updating my drill press as well? Any recommendations there?
Click to expand...

Just make sure you get an oil-lubed compressor, not an oil-less. The oil-lubed ones are much, much quieter.
 
Great Spelling

Gregg

I have a 60 Gal Oiled Compressor, and i love it. It's quieter than the oilless ones and the 60 Gal means it runs infrequently.

Buy the way, I'm happy to see a Gregg who spells his name correctly :p
 
Here is what I have and am very happy with it.

Craftsman 25 gallon 150 PSI 10.4 CFM compressor.

Model # 919.195411

It is an oilless type.

It is quiet, runs on 110 volts and I can move it from place to place easily. It has plenty of capacity for all my air tools and I have painted every part of my RV-9A with it. I don't notice it running much at all using most air tools.

Hope this helps
 
Besides being at the finishing end of an RV-10, I am also a contractor. I burn up three to four compressors a year on the job. But the ones that don't burn up are the oil ones. Regardless of what you get follow everybody's advice about oil.
 
PVC does have a tendency to get brittle with age and UV exposure. Steel or copper pipe is said to have a tendency to split if temperatures get cold and water freezes in them - the trick is not to have level runs of pipe where water can sit. I take advantage of the heat transfer ability of black iron pipe on my air system by coming up out of my 5hp 60 gal compressor to just below the roof of my shop and running at a very slight uphill angle to my downdrops where the air chucks are mounted on the wall. The angle overhead allows condensed water to run back down to the tank where it can be disposed of through the condensate drain on the tank, and on my downdrops I extend the pipe all the way to about 6" above the floor, with a condensate drain at the bottom, and the air chuck is at waist height, creating a condensate collection chamber below the air chuck. All I have to do is remember to drain the condensate on the downdrops in cold weather, no frozen pipes and no water in my air. Life is good.

Oh yeah - definitely get an oil-lube compressor. They're quieter and last forever.
 
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