[skidmk]

any hints as to how to draw the skin down onto the "nose" of HS707 for riveting? The cleco's will not hold it down due to the dimpling.

thanks

Mike

 

[mike crowe]

RV8 HS

Mike,

I work for Alexander Tech as an instructor on the Tail kit program. We are finding that the skins are not bent as far as they should be. The last RV8 kit we did had the same problem. Try bending the skins a little more. That should fix the problem. It fixed it for us.

 

[dan]

1. Use Wedgelok clecos if you're not already. The clecos that some vendors (Spruce comes to mind from one local builder's issues with them) sell are actually narrower diameter than others.

2. "Back in the day" before everything was match-drilled, you had to fabricate "clothespin" type clamps/jigs to help the skin conform to the structure. See these images:

That's foam duct-taped inside the clamps.

 

[N674P]

If the fit is pretty good, but you need help keeping the rib tight to the skin: The solution for me (read here on the forums) was a short piece of rubber tubing over the rivet shank, which presses the rib to the skin while you buck. For the times when the fit isn't perfect, this works great!
The tubing I.D. is the same as the rivet, or very slightly larger, and pops off when you're done bucking. Seems the HS nose rivets are the only place I've had to do that so far...

 

[skidmk]

Short piece of tube?

thanks for the replies everyone,, the tube thing seems the "least time consuming".... I'm trying to visualze...

If I understand the rivet goes in the hole, I put rubber on it (tubing) then slide it into the flange and buck?

thanks

M

 

[vmirv8bldr]

I used the cutout

I made the "clothespin" cutout thingy with some scrap plywood. That and clecos worked great. I had no problems at all.

When cleco'ing the HS together for riveting, it is easier to put the nose clecos in first, top and bottom, then work your way back toward the trailing edge.

I don't know about the bend not being right. My emp kit shipped last July, didn't seem to have a probelm. When I first assembled it, I did the bottom first (or top, I can remember) then flipped it over. It was a royal pain to get those nose cleco's in on the other side. I removed the rear cleco's and did the nose first, top and bottom. After the nose cleco's were in, I slid the plywood cutout down over the assembly and continued cleco'ing. Much easier.

Good luck,

(EDIT) I forgot to mention, it may help to craft some sort of support to hold the HS up while you do this. I used several clamps and some scrap wood on the edge of my work table, then clamped the HS skeleton to it. Pretty simple, I just needed it to hold the HS vertical. It made sliding the skins on MUCH easier.

 

[N674P]

Sorry I don't have pics, but to try to explain:
Skin is cleco'd to rib, rivet in place ready to buck, but there's still a gap between the skin and rib flange. Cut a piece of hose (like aquarium air supply tubing) a little longer than the length of rivet shank poking through the flange. The length is not critical, ~1 1/4 times exposed shank is probably plenty. More than ~1 1/2 times gets unwieldy.
Slip the tube over the shank, and buck as usual. The tubing presses the flange to the skin before (or as) the bucking bar contacts the rivet. You probably won't be able to use that piece of tubing again, but then again, I bought a foot for under a buck (6" 3/32" I.D. and 6" 1/8" I.D.) it will be more than enough for a few projects.