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You might want to do a search for Dan Horton's definitive study on this subject. He ran actual tests and has much to offer on this.
 
We know that Dan Horton doesn't like this product, but we don't intend for it to keep fire out. That's the firewall's job.... until the aluminum belly burns through, or other nasty failure occurs... ugh. Or you die in the crash after you shut off the fuel.... etc, etc. Not trying to start an argument, just pointing out that if you want safety, don't fly. Of course, you'll die of boredom instead. Something will get you.

Heatshield mat is quite helpful if you've got typical hot RV feet. I have found it to be quite useful for making at least 2 of my RVs (one is a Rocket) much more tolerable in the summer.

If this isn't in your comfort zone, please choose another heat proofing method.

Please let me be clear, I'm not ragging on Dan. His methods are spot on and 100% valid, but might be overkill for some situations. I just wanted cool feet during normal flight. I wasn't looking for extra fire protection.
 
I don't have a problem with it. Primum non nocere. It surely does as Vince describes (provides some reduction in ordinary engine operating heat transferred to the cabin), and it can't increase fire risk if installed on the engine side of the firewall. For sure it is smarter than some of the really bad insulation choices folks install on the cabin side of firewalls.
 
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I use it on fiberglass cowls. It needs to be replaced relatively often (near real heat) and I have burn spots on the outside of my cowls within 3/4 inch of the exhaust where I left it for too long. I think a double layer works better. Away from the exhaust one layer works fine.

I've seen (I think) a layer of fiberfrax tight to the glass and a layer of aluminum floated about 1/16" above on washers work much better and will try that soon. Will have to do some digging in my archives for that combination and the installation to be sure. I'll guess someone here knows that process?
 
flyingriki said:
I've seen (I think) a layer of fiberfrax tight to the glass and a layer of aluminum floated about 1/16" above on washers work much better and will try that soon.....I'll guess someone here knows that process?
Click to expand...

No washers, no float. "Shadow" the pipes with 3" fiberfrax strips and capture it under HD self-stick aluminum foil from the Vans catalog.

1zp5ouf.jpg


Caveat; someone reported an incident where this kind of shielding came loose and blocked the cowl outlet. I've not had any sign of adhesion loss, but the inside of the cowl is sealed and painted so the stuff sticks very well.
 
Dan's cowl insulation method looks very nice. He sure makes it tough for the rest of us to keep up!

Another technique that works well if your cowling isn't nicely painted inside is to apply the insulation then put a bead or ProSeal or RTV around the edge of the insulation to seal the edges. This will keep the dirt, oils, and water from getting behind the insulation and making a mess.

Of course, the area still needs to be clean and reasonably smooth for the insulation to stick. Do it once, and do it right, and it should last the life of the plane.
 
It would seem to me that if one had a sustained engine compartment fire on an aircraft such as an RV, most of the fire would be in the lower cowl and cowl exit area. This means that the most vulnerable (to fire) areas is the lower cowl and the bottom aluminum skin of the cockpit. I would think that the firewall is sufficient as designed but the lower cockpit skin is where the protection should be applied. To that end, would the subject product work on the bottom skin? IE, would is stay stuck on despite the constant airflow and relatively low heat under normal operations? or would something else be better such as a stainless sheet over the aluminum?

I also suspect that the lower skin is also the pathway for the vast majority of engine (exhaust) noise entering the cockpit. So a 1/16 cover of self adhesive kiln insulation covered by a thin sheet of stainless attached with rivets or screws would make a pretty good sandwich for sound and heat protection, no?

Bevan
 
No, the Heatshield mat would not be appropriate for use on the exterior of the plane, nor would it be useful against direct flame.

It is good at reflecting and insulating against radiant heat. That makes it useful for keeping your feet cool or preventing scorch marks on your cowling near the exhaust pipes.
 
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