[JEG]

Can anyone give me an idea as to how munch storage (drawers) will be needed to keep RV 12 nuts, bolts and other hardware in an orderly manner.Thanks, John

 

[Geico266]

I have 2 storage bins from Menards or Harbor Freight that have 30 little drawers, and 25 big drawers. The drawers have dividers in them. I lable every drawer so I know whats in it. Clear ones work the best so you can see them at a quick glance. That has been plenty for me.

 

[JohnF]

Storage

I have eleven (11) storage bins - all a bit different - some have 40 little drawers, some up to 80 drawers...probably a total of 500 little drawers. After putting the latest sub kit (finish) they are ALL being used, some with more than one type of item in a drawer.

I found it makes it a lot easier, and much faster, to find a specific nut, bolt, part, by making a computer list of every item, putting it in alphabetic order, and posting it on the wall. When I need a part I check the list, and find a number after it, like 8-4-6 for example, which I code up to mean; unit
#8, 4th vertical row, 6th drawer down in that row.

I can locate any part in a few seconds instead of rumaging around in boxes for the many parts you end up with. Some of my 'stock' are parts left over from the RV6A I built, and some just shop stock, but this system has saved me a LOT of time.

 

[vernhendershott]

I used 8 plastic boxes from Harbor freight they are about 15 x 12 and have 24 compartments and are of a clear plastic so you can see through the top without opening them when looking for a nut or bolt. I also used the detailed inventory to make labels in WORD on Avery 33 up labels to label each compartment using the bag number and line number ( 2608-3) on the top line, then the word description on the second line (Rivet, solid) and then the part number on the third line (AN426-3.5). If you know what you are looking for then it is easy to see the nuts and the third line will confirm that you are selecting the correct part called out on the drawing. If you do not know what the item you are looking for looks like then you can go to the inventory and find the item where it is listed, say Bag 2413 and it is the third item so you go to the box that has the compartment 2413-3 and you have it. This is also very helpful when sorting the items in a bag if there are are only two of one washer then they must be the ones that the bag list indicates there are only two of and you put them in the correct compartment then separate the four that are alike and as there is only one listed item with a quantity of four you put them in their compartment until you have sorted all the parts. You will still need a small box perhaps one foot square to hold the parts that will not fit in the small compartments and then I label the bottom of the correct compartment "In the box" you will also have some rivets and screws that come in a large quantity such that all will not fit in a compartment and I label the bottom of these compartments "More in the box" so that when I use the quantity in the compartment I know there are more in the box to refill the compartment.

A system like this save a lot of time and frustration when building.

Have a good day.

Best regards,
Vern

 

[Mich48041]

Each part stored in a unique location

A friend who is building an Europa has several cabinets of small plastic drawers. He labeled the cabinets A, B, C, D and etc. And within each cabinet, he numbered the drawers. As he inventoried his parts, he put them into drawers and entered the cabinet and drawer location into a computer spreadsheet. During construction when he needs a part, he uses the search function of the computer program to find the location. Then he goes directly to the cabinet and drawer and finds his part. He said it took him a full day to enter the data into the computer. That seems like a lot of wasted time. But then when I think back to all of the hours that I spent looking for parts, it probably added up to several wasted days.
Another friend used 4oz clear plastic cups to put parts into. He labeled each cup with the bag number and set the cups on shelves. I used his method. I should have purchased the cabinets instead. Keeping the contents of a bag in one cup works fine at first because you can identify a part by the quantity on the packing list. But after you use some of the parts, the remaining quantity of similar looking parts no longer offers a clue. Storing each part number in its own unique location would have been so much easier than wasting time searching again and again.
The same computer spreadsheet method could be used for larger parts by labeling shelves with letters and numbering the areas on each shelf.
Has anyone else besides me wasted time looking for parts?
Joe

 

[ARPENN]

John,
I purchased two plastic containers with 30 small drawers and 9 large drawers from Home Depot.
I broke the bags down and stored all like items together in the drawers. Believe me this is the easiest way to control and locate parts. Bag numbers are not mentioned in the construction documents. Only item IDs and standard hardware identifications are used. Everything should fit in those two containers for the first three kits. If you are purchasing more kits at the same time, of course you will need at least one more container. Leave the LP4-3 rivets in their cardboard boxes and dip out a bunch from time to time. I use old plastic food tubs that the wife was discarding.
I labeled each draw with Avery inkjet address labels. The drawers can be divided to double your storage, since most of the bagged items, such as rivets, bolts, nuts etc. take up little room. The larger drawers can contain your larger hardware items. The larger items I stored on shelving purchased at Home Depot. Three of those worked fine. I kept the large skins in the transport crates to keep them clean and free of damage.
Good luck with your project.
Art Pennanen

 

[GDS]

We use about 8 plastic tray-like containers with compartments. We're building in a hangar and have multiple benches, so we can take the fastener boxes where we need them. We only sort the common fasteners and washers. Specialty items (the finish kit has lots) we leave in the bags they were delivered in and search using the inventory list.

Related subject, "workbenches". We have six, plus a little office with a drill press and mini band saw. All were scavenged from friends,etc., but our hands-down favorites were made from the crates the RV12 was shipped in. Turn them upside down on saw horses, screw them down and add a few braces here and there and you'll have the ideal set up. They are not particularly nice to look at (just like the builders) but are effective. We drill through the tops, use them as cutting boards, write notes on them, spray paint on them, etc. The finish kit crate is large, tipped up on edge, it is our rattle can paint booth. JR and GDS

 

[tc1234c]

Another approach

When I built my 9A I used a lot of small bins, bottles, etc. to store hardware. When I started my 10 project I decided not to bother with all the work of sorting and organizing those small parts. I put all the brown bags of a kit (emp, wing, etc) in a plastic container and arrange them based on the bag number. I also keep the Van's packing list in the container. The container is kept under the workbench. Whenever I need anything: rivets, bolts, nuts, etc. I use the packing list to located the bag number. It takes me 10 minutes to get all my hardware organized. So far it worked well for my emp and wing build. This fit my "mininum effect and maximum result" philosophy.