Wrapping up miscellaneous details before the haul to the airport. One thing on the list was fabricating a method of jacking up a wheel for service.
The Grove aluminum gear leg has no center counterbore, so unlike the steel legs you can't insert a jacking stub from the inner side. Unlike A-model legs, the aluminum axles are not counterbored so you can't use a long stub from the outside either. You can't jack under the end because of the internal brake line drilling; there's a fluid fitting on the end of the leg.
Sidestepping the problem with jacks under the wing tiedown points is fine for service at home, but I wanted something for the travel tool bag.
So, here's the direct approach, bolt-on lift points using the upper axle attach bolts. You also fabricate a 7/16" open end wrench with a Z-handle so you can reach in behind the brake rotor and hold the heads.
Now you can lift with whatever you have available; a small bottle jack, a scissors jack and a wood block, or even a lever made from a few bricks and a 2x4.
These were fabbed from 2x2x3/16 mild steel angle, a bit of 3/16 plate to lengthen one leg, and a short length of 1-3/4 tube for a safety ring. You need a "left' and "right"; note the angle of the bolt pattern. The angle puts the flat of the lift point parallel to the ground.
If I have these in the tool bag I will surely never have a flat away from home
The Grove aluminum gear leg has no center counterbore, so unlike the steel legs you can't insert a jacking stub from the inner side. Unlike A-model legs, the aluminum axles are not counterbored so you can't use a long stub from the outside either. You can't jack under the end because of the internal brake line drilling; there's a fluid fitting on the end of the leg.
Sidestepping the problem with jacks under the wing tiedown points is fine for service at home, but I wanted something for the travel tool bag.
So, here's the direct approach, bolt-on lift points using the upper axle attach bolts. You also fabricate a 7/16" open end wrench with a Z-handle so you can reach in behind the brake rotor and hold the heads.
Now you can lift with whatever you have available; a small bottle jack, a scissors jack and a wood block, or even a lever made from a few bricks and a 2x4.
These were fabbed from 2x2x3/16 mild steel angle, a bit of 3/16 plate to lengthen one leg, and a short length of 1-3/4 tube for a safety ring. You need a "left' and "right"; note the angle of the bolt pattern. The angle puts the flat of the lift point parallel to the ground.
If I have these in the tool bag I will surely never have a flat away from home
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