Auburntsts

Auburntsts

Well Known Member
Anyone using the Gretz GA-1000 pitot tube with the SafeAir1 static/pitot system? I'm trying to figure out the hardware needed to connect the pitot tube to the SafeAir plastic tubing. It would seem the easiest would be to place a SafeAir straight fitting (SA-F1 or SA-F2) on the plastic tubing and then connect the fitting to the flared aluminum tube coming from the pitot with some type of union or reducer. Does that sound right? Any suggested part numbers?
 
Todd, I have the same setup, but haven't gotten to the point of connecting them yet. I would also be interested in the details, anybody!
 
Good questions.......

I need to find a solution to transition from the 1/4" aluminum tubing I ran in the wing to the pitot to quick disconnects that Stein sells. I suspect they are similiar to the SafeAir one.
 
Call or email Stein

I went through this same thing and ordered a lot of parts that did not work then emailed Stein and they sent me what I needed.
 
Found the Stein invoice.

Put the pieces vans gives you on the tube coming from the pitot tube and flared the tube, then get an AN816-4D Nipple 1/4" Tube, 1/8" NPT (Stein item code p-an816-4d)

That will attach to a Female Straight Union 1/4" OD Tube NPT 1/8" (Stein item code p-512)
 
My Safair kit came with AN fittings. I flared the pitot tube for the AN fittings. I have a unheated Dynon AOA/Pitot tube.
Rick Maury
 
Thanks John -- that helps considerably.

Maury, the SafeAir hardware is optimized for Dynon pitot tubes. The alum tube coming out of the Dynon is 3/16" while the tube out of the Gretz is 1/4". So to connect the SafeAir and Gretz I need an AN fitting that is 1/4" male on one end (to connect to the 1/4 nut off the pitot) and 1/8 NPT on the other to connect the SafeAir straight fitting off the plastic tubing (which SafeAir doesn't sell or at least list online).
 
I ran the aluminum tube all the way to the root rib then used the Safeair system from there to the panel. I did make a disconnect at the rib next to the pitot tube, that way I can disconnect the tube via an AN fitting. If you think you'll never need to take out the tube, let me tell ya neither did I until the pitot heat breaker popped first time I turned it on. Seems the insulation wore a bit thin on a bend inside near the heating element and shorted out, good thing my troubleshooting friends were restrained, they wanted to hold in the breaker and find out what got hot or made smoke! :D retired fighter pilots, go figure ;) anybody wonder why the CB panels are under the right strake on the F-16? So you can't hold them in while in flight to see if you can get that system to work!! With the disconnect there it made removing the tube a piece of cake and fixing the problem.
 
Rick S. said:
If you think you'll never need to take out the tube, let me tell ya neither did I until the pitot heat breaker popped first time I turned it on. Seems the insulation wore a bit thin on a bend inside near the heating element and shorted out, good thing my troubleshooting friends were restrained, they wanted to hold in the breaker and find out what got hot or made smoke! :D retired fighter pilots, go figure ;) anybody wonder why the CB panels are under the right strake on the F-16?
Click to expand...

Warren must have had a bad batch. I had a similiar problem with a short to one of the thermistor leads. It fried the control board. It took me quite a bit of testing to find the exact issue. It worked fine on the bench, but the short didn't act up until the pitot was grounded to the airframe.

Fortunately, Andrew at Angus Aviation was good to work with and he replaced the board and pitot.

bob
 
Same problem, same answer, different source

I recently came across same problem connecting the heated Gretz pitot (1/4") to Safeair tubing, got the following reply from Tony at SafeAir, as well as an answer about whether I need to add aluminum tubing for a short distance beyond the heated pitot to dissipate heat before starting the SafeAir tubing. $3.29 plus shipping, from Van's.

FYI


"You?ll need one each of the following:

AN816-4D - Nipple
AN818-4D ? Nut
AN819-4D ? Sleeve (aka: MS20819-4D)

These same parts (in -3D size) were included in our kit and you?ll replace them with the parts listed above. These parts are available from most any parts warehouse, such as Spruce or Wicks and probably don?t amount to more than $3.00 or $4.00.

Our tubing is rated to 200 degrees F. Since aluminum transmits heat to the surrounding air quite well, I doubt that many BTU?s can be transmitted along the aluminum tubing and into the plastic tubing. I think you?ll be fine and I am not aware of any of our customers having difficulty with such issues."
 
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