danielhv

danielhv

Well Known Member
So I tried the green loctite/vacuum trick.... it seemed to suck it in for a while, it actually never stopped, so I became concerned that it was just pouring into the tank. I released the vacuum slowly (while I still had a pool of loctite on the rivet) and removed the fuel cap for it to sit and cure. So, how long does the green loctite take to cure enough to re-test the tank?
 
From what I have read 15 mins and the adhesive cements itself under an anaerobic (lack of air) reaction. I have had mixed results, hope it works for you.
 
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A thought

Locktite goes off under the ABSENCE of oxygen.

You could make sure of this by getting a chunk of Dry ice (supermarket) and throwing that in the tank and putting a plastic tube on the vent under water.

Great way to eld on a fuel tank I found out..:)

Tape over the outside of the rivet to expel any air.

It will definately set then!

Frank
 
Man, this stuff just doesnt seem to want to cure... I tried the whole put the vent lines under water, throw some dry ice in the tank and put the cap on. Taped over the rivets. Let it sit 24 hours. Put about .5psi on it and it started pushing the green loctite back out the rivet. :confused: suggestions?
 
Like I said, I have had mixed to poor results with the Loctite thing. If it were my tank I would re-proseal what ever area was giving me problems. The Loctite fix is a last resort. At least you are in the building stage and not flying with painted wings.
 
Geico266 said:
Like I said, I have had mixed to poor results with the Loctite thing. If it were my tank I would re-proseal what ever area was giving me problems. The Loctite fix is a last resort. At least you are in the building stage and not flying with painted wings.
Click to expand...

Ive tried... I cut a hole in the baffle and re-did the joint. The only other option would be to drill out all the rivets on the rear baffle... which I do NOT want to do. WAY too many rivets plus all the solid blind rivets on the Z-brackets! dont think so! There's gotta be another way...
 
Hi Daniel - I just took a look at your website. The wings are looking good. Are the rivets on the baffle set double flush? I don't see much of a shop head in the pics, but the pictures/lighting might just be deceiving.

Stick with it. The wings were a PITA for me. As if each task wasn't bad enough, you get to do it twice. The fuse is a breath of fresh air.
 
Lionclaw said:
Hi Daniel - I just took a look at your website. The wings are looking good. Are the rivets on the baffle set double flush? I don't see much of a shop head in the pics, but the pictures/lighting might just be deceiving.

Stick with it. The wings were a PITA for me. As if each task wasn't bad enough, you get to do it twice. The fuse is a breath of fresh air.
Click to expand...

No they are not double flush... I have a nice thick layer of proseal over them thus giving the appearance of them being double flush or over-squeezed. :)

Thanks for the compliments. And yes, I am DREADING the other tank. But, it shouldnt be as bad as the first now that I have some experience under my belt!!!!
 
Where is it leaking?

This is my theory of what is happening...

view one.jpg


The leak is along the flange of the baffel, ultimately at the head of the rivet, not at the skin/baffel interface. The leak could be coming from several inches left or right of the rivets that show the leak, traveling along the rivet line until finding a sutible rivet.

When I had these leaks I did the following.

1. drill out the problem rivet(s)
2. slobber a new one with proseal, especially on the countersunk head side.
3. re squeeze em

It worked every time I tried it.

The other option would be to drill out a row of about 7 rivets (tank skin to baffel) gently pry the edges apart and jam a bunch of proeal in there.
I did this for an area where my tanks had to have a hole cut for the tie-down ring (I added a few extra bays for fuel)

just my experience - your results may differ.
 
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