S

Steve Brown

Well Known Member
I hope.

Today when I changed the oil I punched a hole in the highest point of the oil filter. This to provide a vent so that oil could drain freely out of the filter.

I let the whole thing drain and drip during lunch. When I pulled the filter after lunch, there wasn't a bit of oil in it.

I used a very small (jewelers) Phillips screwdriver and a wrench to whack it with. I figured the screwdriver tip would be soft enough not to break off in the filter.

I'll probably make a tool from a smoothed nail for my next oil change. I'd say if I can repeat the performance I'm going to have clean oil changes from now on.
 
That's great Steve!

Sounds like you have the filters that don't have the "check valve" design....the ones for my engine retain the oil and won't drain, no matter if you cut the whole top off them. Now the good part is that the entire filter full of oil doesn't dump - just the amount between the filter and the adapter - but that is still enough to make a mess if you don't prepare for it.

I have watched people's comments on filter changes for years, and the problem with "Eureka!" moments is that it depends on the configuration - different filters, different adapters, and even a difference between nose draggers and tail draggers. It's always great when someone finds a combination that works!

Paul
 
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Oil filter mystery solved - Not

I used the same procedure this week. Poked a hole in the top of the filter, waited a long time while performing other maintenance chores, then confidently unscrewed the filter.

What a mess :mad:

I don't get it. Now I'm wondering if the temperature of the oil has something to do with whether or not the filter will empty.
or
Maybe its the phase of the moon.
 
TAKE A MILK JUG and keep cutting on it till it fits up under the filter good and tight. Works best with filters in STANDARD location.
 
Almost....

.......but no cigar. I just changed oil yesterday and don't have any mess. First punch a hole in the top rear of the filter, then unscrew it half a turn and place a cup under the filter or suspend one with safety wire. I personally stand a plastic cup on the heater valve on the firewall then punch a second hole on top and the oil will then drain out of the lower hole. The cup will be about 3/4 full and it's dicey getting it out between engine mount, oil lines, etc but it can be done.

Regards,
 
I still use the plastic bag around the entire filter and drop the filter in it the bag. Works for me.
 
Different Configurations Folks!!

One size does not fit all!

It really doesn't do a lot of good for other folks to tell them how to do it if you don't say what configuration you have - straight back filter, angle adapters, check valve filters, non-check valve filters...each is different! When you tell someone "just do it this way" without telling them what you have, you really don't do much good, and just frustrate the folks that keep making meses. For my engine, I have a check-valve filter on an angel adapter. I have to bag it with a zip-lock, or I get the mess. Louise just brought one of those long thin aluminum drain troughs to our hangar though....yet another thing to try!

Paul
 
pierre smith said:
.......but no cigar. I just changed oil yesterday and don't have any mess. First punch a hole in the top rear of the filter, then unscrew it half a turn and place a cup under the filter or suspend one with safety wire. I personally stand a plastic cup on the heater valve on the firewall then punch a second hole on top and the oil will then drain out of the lower hole. The cup will be about 3/4 full and it's dicey getting it out between engine mount, oil lines, etc but it can be done.

Regards,
Click to expand...

Pierre, I do the same but instead of a plastic cup I use a one serving (12 oz?) plastic Coke or 7-UP bottle that has the top cut off. This makes it a "cup" that is very flexible and easy to remove from the tight space. I also use my compressor to pressurize the top hole, which blows the slow dripping oil out the bottom hole nicely. Since the oil is still seeping out of the filter element it takes several ?pressurizations? to get it to the last drop. Straight back/non-check valve filter.
 
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CH48108-1 or equivalents have a by pass valve and CH-48110 or equivalents don't. The issue is the ability of the system to bypass the oil filter should it become plugged. The angled oil filter adapter that Paul has, does not have no by pass feature built into the oil filter adapter on the engine. Thus, you need a bypass built into the filter. Oil filter adapters that use a CH-48110-1 or equivalent filter must have a bypass valve built into the adapter they screw onto. If the adapter doesn?t have a bypass feature and you use a non bypass type filter, if the filter becomes plugged or restricted, you will starve the engine for oil and have a much bigger mess then oil filter removal causes, from the hole in the crankcase the thrown rod caused :). The valve isn't there to save or not save a mess on filter change ( but that is an added benefit) but to provide oil pressure to the engine should the filter become plugged.
Good Luck,
Mahlon
"The opinions and information provided in this and all of my posts are hopefully helpful to you. Please use the information provided responsibly and at your own risk."
 
Thanks Mahlon!

That is the best explanation I have ever read about the Bypass/non-bypass topic - I actually understand it now! And of course, the reason I still have to use a bag and a rag when I change the filter is that there is always some oil between the filter and the adapter that is going to escape - I don't have to worry about dumping the whole filter full of oil down the back of the the engine, but it doesn't take much to make a mess....(but I have a system that works now!)

Paul
 
No Mess Oil Change

I've been meaning to get these pics up of how I do my oil changes (now working on my 66th oil change ;-). Here's what I'm able to do with our O-360 A1A :D Rosie

Oil_Change_01.jpg
Oil_Change_02.jpg
Oil_Change_03.jpg
 
It has taken six changes for me to get it right but.....
CH48108 horizontal adapter.
Get a 4' length of 1.5" * 0.125 angle. Cheap soft hardware stuff.
Flatten the end out in a vice. It'll wedge nicely under the loosened filter and drain out to the side.
I'll take a photo next time. Didn't spill a drop last time.
Cheers!
 
I can't remember where I read the tip to use a bag but in the past my oil changes have been a mess. Tried all types of cuts in oil cans for a drip tray, fabricated a draining angle, etc. but the problem on my O320 is that a oil line enters the accessory case just below the oil filter leaving about a 1/2" space between them. On Saturday I tried it with a large ziplock back around the oil filter and it worked perfectly....not one drop spilled.

I love these forums where all kinds of great ideas pop up. Thanks all.
 
Rosie said:
I've been meaning to get these pics up of how I do my oil changes (now working on my 66th oil change ;-). Here's what I'm able to do with our O-360 A1A :D Rosie

Oil_Change_01.jpg
Oil_Change_02.jpg
Oil_Change_03.jpg
Click to expand...

Outstanding idea....works like a charm. No mess! Thanks Paul! :D
 
it is nice............

when there is no mess changing the oil. i find this 3 1/2 inch by 3 1/2 inch container to fit nicely under the lip of the oil filter holder.

you can also see that i have bent up the oil filter tabs so wiring on the filter it is easier to feed the safety onto the filter. keep on flying.

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