C

Cam Hartman

Member
Hello Everyone,

A mate and I recently took delivery of the Tail Kits for two RV8s we're building and we're in the process of looking down the track for other equipment, flight instruments, cabin furnishings etc to get some ideas.

I've seen a few "gooseneck" type joysticks fitted to the front cockpit of some RVs on this and other sites and I'm wondering where one can buy these?

In fact, any information would be very greatly appreciated especially:-
1. Where do you get them,
2. Are they available for front and back cockpits,
3. How do they compare operationally to the "straight" type, &
4. Are there any tricks or traps with installation or subsequent use?

Thanks in advance and Merry Christmas to all.

Best Wishes,
 
Hello Cam,
You sure you want one? I recall the straight stick being close to the body at full up elevator. I'm 6-2 with a 36 waist.
 
Hello Dan,

Not sure at this stage; we're just gathering information at the moment.

Thanks for the reply though.

Regards,
 
Bent Stick?

You're talking about the bent stick? Todd at RVWoody is the one who bends them - you send them your stick, he bends it, and sends it back. I had him do mine, and really like the way it fits. Obviously, everyone is built differently, and it might not be for everyone...but it works pretty good for me. I've never run out of stick travel, and it makes the grip at cruise very comfortable - for me! YMMV

Paul
 
Cam, I had one drop shipped from Vans to Todd at RVWOODY. He did an awesome job. I also kept the stick that came with my fuse kit. They are easy enough to swap out so I plan on trying both and going with the one I like the most.
 
"Gooseneck Joysticks" or "Bent Sticks" - any old name in a storm!

G'day Paul,

Thanks for your reply; every bit of new info is a help. I had a look at the photographs of your 8; very nice aeroplane. We've got the same Stick Grips as you, must be proof that great minds think alike.

William,

Thankyou for your info as well, that is a good plan of yours; we'll probably wind up doing the same thing.

When the time comes we'll use the contact that you have both kindly provided.

Thanks Gents,

Best Wishes,
 
thanks for the info guys,,, but I want to be clear. 6'2 240,, 8,,, straight stick will be better? or the curve.. gotta watch the tummy.

M
 
Straight vs Bent may relate to your grip

I have a friend with a flying -8 and a straight stick who couldn't understand the 'need' for a bent stick. What we discovered is that, with his stick grip (std. Mac type straight grip), you don't need a bend for the grip to be comfortable. With my Infinity grip, I'll need some bend for it to fit niceley into my hand.

I ended up drilling a 3/8" hole (Van's brass insert fits nicely so you can bolt it in place) in a scrap piece of 1 x 4" lumber and outlining a "stick", which I cut out and fit my grip to the top. Then I could try various angles and adjustments to the stick by adjusting or cutting a new one. You might want to try this first to ensure you get the configuration you want. I found that neither the straight stick or single bend was comfortable.

Now the problem is getting a bend in the actual stick without ruining it. I've hot bent and ruined one and a tubing shop mangled a second one. If Van's sold stock, I'd buy one just on the increase in stick sales. I'm now ordering tubing from AC Spruce and will build my own - no matter how long it takes :)
 
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Control stick bending

Bent control sticks can be done at home some evening if you are willing to gamble with the material and if you have a means of heating the steel. Propane torches will work but acetelene torches work best.

Lay out the bend you want, plug one end of your contol stick material with a wooden plug, fill the tube with sand, pack it in tight and plug the open end with another wooden plug. (an old shop broomhandle makes good plug stock)The packed sand will help to keep the tubing from kinking when you start bending.....(leave your stock long until after the bending is finished)

Borrow a conduit bender from one of your electical tradesmen friends. secure it in your bench vice, bender section up. Heat your tubing in the area you first wish to bend, spreading the heat over 4 to 6 inches and do not heat beyond a dull red color. Slip the hot end into the bender. Carefully start applying bending loads to the tubing until you get the curve you want. Rotate the tubing 90 degrees and reheat further along for the second bend. Repeat heating and bending until you have the curve you want. You may need to practice with cheap conduit before using expensive 4130 tubing and you will find that it is not that difficult to do. Make sure you bend conduit cold, fumes from heating conduit are poisonous.

Good luck, Doug sr.









.
 
With the -8, a bent stick in the front is really almost a must. Another -8 owner and I were discussing this topic last night and we really concluded the best -8 stick design would have the upper section of the stick bent and a slightly longer lower section (below the fulcrum).

The problem is that the panel is a little too close to the vertical centerline of the stick. This makes it hard to get full fore and aft deflection of the stick without interference with the panel and/or your body. To clear the edge of the seat, the bend in the upper section is necessary. To keep the stick clear of the panel and/or off your body, the deflection needs to be reduced slightly by increasing the lower section length a little.

BTW - I bought a nice hydraulic tubing bender at Harbor Freight. Using a little propane torch heat, it makes nice bends up to about 30-40 degrees in thin-walled steel tubing.
 
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Cam Hartman said:
G'day Bryan,

Do you have a part number for the hydraulic tubing bender from Harbor Freight?

Thanks,
Click to expand...
Pretty sure this is the one I bought.

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=32888

Decent product for the price. Not bad for bending galvanized pipe and conduit too! ;)

Using to bend 4130, get the OD cherry red with a propane torch. Go slow. It won't bend with zero creases, but I've made bends with just a slight wrinkle on the ID. In my estimation, it's still 90+% as strong as before bending. And I feel that's plenty at 90-KSI strength.

Also, regarding my previous post about lengthening the lower section of the stick. Can't do it without serious modifications to the entire center control system. Will have to make it work with bending the upper portion of the stick alone.

Just ordered a new stick to modify myself. Going to do a complete stick and grip wiring rework. Keeping the Infinity grip, but going with Cannon plug instead of hard wiring.

Good luck with yours!
 
RV8 Stick Options

Regarding RV8 front stick, local RV8 builders have tried several configurations including Todd's Gooseneck sold by Todd at http://www.rvwoody.com/ I cut mine off, welded a 1" 45 degree offset as shown here This is another inovation which I have flown and find comfortable. Cheers and onward.
 
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I have Todd's bent stick, but on the recommendation of another local builder, I had the top of the stick bent forward an additional 5 degrees. This makes for a very comfortable stick. The additional forward bend allows the stick grip to be a little more upright with the stick back.
I use the Infinity grip and the set up is very comfortable to use in all regimes and it looks great, too.
 
Frank-

What is the additional linkage-like contraption in the second picture? (on the front part of the stick) Is it just for support or does it serve another purpose??

Thomas
 
Linkage-like Contraption

Essentially it's a paralleoagram pivoting at all 4 corners displacing the grip anywhere you want it along the top leg which is extended aft beyond the primary vertical leg. This allows the grip to extend above the panel and move full throw with out interfering with the panel. The grip maintains whatever vertical angle you install it with. Of course there are always your leg considerations but everything is a compromise. Here is a sketch of the layout.
 
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Wishbone steering control stick

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did you say gooseneck or joystick? :)
 
Wow, Mark. That's very....well.....the curves are kinda....and the bumps sorta....

:::rereading the posting rules::::

Yep, I should just keep my mouth shut on this one.
 
The bent stick also provides for a much more stable formation platform. Bent stick allows forearm in lap, which removes the elbow from the flying equasion and allows for gentle wrist actuation. Its like having a new wingman when he shifts from straight to bent stick.

Best,
 
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