[john02]

I am running out of space in my garage/want to make a jig that will handle both wings at same time, will be moving in a year, and want to start the fuselage with the goal of having it flipped on a stand before I move. The order for building typically goes wings then fuse so that you can measure the distance between the spars to build that dimension into the fuse....

With the semi-pre-punched -4 wings is the dimension at the fuse attach points guaranteed enough to chance it and do the fuse first with dimensions from the plans?

On a side note - you guys with the new wing kits: what all is prepunched? Is it like the old first generation -8 kit with all skins and some internal parts pre-punched or skins/front spar only? I can't find specifics in the plans.

Thanks,
John

 

[WSBuilder]

Probably Could

I am running out of space in my garage/want to make a jig that will handle both wings at same time, will be moving in a year, and want to start the fuselage with the goal of having it flipped on a stand before I move. The order for building typically goes wings then fuse so that you can measure the distance between the spars to build that dimension into the fuse....

I built (am building) the wings individually. I made several mistakes on the first one that would have been duplicated if I was building them in tandem. The second one is going together in less than half the time of the first and is very enjoyable. I definitely recommend one-at-a-time for fun.

With the semi-pre-punched -4 wings is the dimension at the fuse attach points guaranteed enough to chance it and do the fuse first with dimensions from the plans?

I think I'd build the spars first (if you have slow builds) so you have the actual thickness dimension that goes into bulkhead 404. I can't comment on the spar to spar distance. It's set by the main rib length and I doubt it would vary, but I don't have the wing to fuselage integration details studied.

On a side note - you guys with the new wing kits: what all is prepunched? Is it like the old first generation -8 kit with all skins and some internal parts pre-punched or skins/front spar only? I can't find specifics in the plans.

Spars are all pre-drilled, save for the rib and stiffener angles. The main, fixed leading edge and fuel tank skins are pre-punched but not the ribs. The ailerons are also RV-8 parts so it's all pre-punched (these will make you lose respect for newer RV model builders) and the flap skins are pre-punched but not the ribs.

 

[Brian Vickers]

Go for it!!

If it were me; I wouldn't let the pre punched kit dictate a critical dimension such as the distance between the two spars. Use the metal working skills you are developing and build it as per the plans and it will fit together in assembly. You might have to make some adjustments to a pre-punched flange or two but that's part of building a metal airplane. Just like Obe Wan Knobe said, "Feel the force Luke." Go for it!!

 

[john02]

one more question....

One more question, can't find it asked anywhere here with the search engine...

I have seen refrences to using RV-7 and RV-8 tanks for more range. Does this mean that the wing ribs, specifically the leading edge ribs are the same on a -7 or -8? If so, are the holes the same? If they are then the not so much prepunched -4 ribs could be replaced with prepunched ribs from another kit and fit with the -4 prepunched skins....right? Would this be an issue with variations in the wing spar?

John

 

[Hal]

Fuselage before wings

No problem, I built a set of RV4 wings in Houston while my partner built the fuselage in New Orleans. This was twenty years ago before prepunch was a word. Fit with no problem at all. You would have to try to mess it up!