A

apatti

Well Known Member
All,

I am trying to understand the fuse riveting sequence... The instructions say to rivet on the 824 side panels while the fuse is upside down on the jig. This includes riveting the 824 to the 887 longeron (except for a couple of places that will be used to match the 825 top skin). There are very few holes attaching the 824 to the 887 and I guess they are mainly "keeper" rivets and lie between holes in the 825 top skin.

Later, you turn the fuse over over and eventually drill and rivet on the 825 top skin. How do you accomodate the line of flush rivets that attach the 825 top skin to 824 side skin/887 longeron? The material is obviously too thick to dimple and the 824 side skins are too thin to countersink.

Sumptin ain't adden up...


Thanks,
 
Tony,

I had the same question myself and was told to countersink it . The side skin is sandwiched between the longeron and the upper skin so I guess it's OK.
I don't see any other way to do it , maybe someone else knows of another way.
Best of the season.

Paul
RV 8 Fuselage
 
countersink

deep in the bowels of the instructions, it does say to countersink those holes. had the same question here until I asked someone smart. then found it in the book later.

and. . . may I suggest you consider attaching as much of the forward belly skins as possible whilst in the jig? I didn't (followed the instructions for a change) and wish I did.
 
We have all asked that same question and the answer is the same - countersink. The sandwich provides the strength.
 
grover said:
deep in the bowels of the instructions, it does say to countersink those holes. had the same question here until I asked someone smart. then found it in the book later.

and. . . may I suggest you consider attaching as much of the forward belly skins as possible whilst in the jig? I didn't (followed the instructions for a change) and wish I did.
Click to expand...

What did you have your trouble with? Mine is out of the jig and I haven't done them yet.

Paul

RV 8 Fuselage
 
less hassle

no trouble, it just seemed to me that it would have been feasable to attach a few more parts while the thing was in the jig. the book says to take it out of the jig, bolt on a few more parts, then turn it upside down to attach the fwd belly skin/floor skin. since I don't have a helper always standing by, I left it upright and shot the things on that way. didn't want to try to flip the thing over by myself. . . again.
 
grover said:
no trouble, it just seemed to me that it would have been feasable to attach a few more parts while the thing was in the jig. the book says to take it out of the jig, bolt on a few more parts, then turn it upside down to attach the fwd belly skin/floor skin. since I don't have a helper always standing by, I left it upright and shot the things on that way. didn't want to try to flip the thing over by myself. . . again.
Click to expand...

My -8 was an early one, S/N 240. Things may have changed but while rightside-up, you are to drill the vertical part of the forward baggage compartment and the holes for the adjustable rudder pedals. These need to be drilled before installing the belly skins so you can install nut-plates. If the belly skins are already installed (while in the jig) you will probably have trouble installing the nutplates.

Of course this would be a moot point if those holes are now pre-punched in the floor...

Karl
 
I built a thing to rotate the fuselage out of a bunch of scrap lumber I had laying around. It took an hour or so to build and it works like a charm , the fuselage can be positioned any way you like.The airplane has done a couple of dozen rolls already and doesn't even have the wings on yet. :D

Paul
RV 8 Fuselage
 
Paul Tuttle said:
I built a thing to rotate the fuselage out of a bunch of scrap lumber I had laying around. It took an hour or so to build and it works like a charm , the fuselage can be positioned any way you like. :D

Paul
RV 8 Fuselage
Click to expand...


Any pics.?
 
Paul Tuttle said:
Tony,

I had the same question myself and was told to countersink it . The side skin is sandwiched between the longeron and the upper skin so I guess it's OK.
I don't see any other way to do it , maybe someone else knows of another way.
Best of the season.

Paul
RV 8 Fuselage
Click to expand...



So you c-sink right through the 824 side skins into the longeron to accept the dimpled f-825?
 
briand said:
So you c-sink right through the 824 side skins into the longeron to accept the dimpled f-825?
Click to expand...

Yes.

BTW, the proper terminology is Machine Countersink. Versus Dimple Countersink.
Both processes produce a "countersunk" hole for a flush rivet (or sometimes a dimple) to lay into.

Just thought I would mention it because using "Machine" countersink or "Dimple" countersink makes it a lot more clear what process specifically is being described.
 
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