rvdave

Well Known Member
I have Vans fuel valve in my RV6 and have from time to time smelled a hint of fuel while changing tanks, nothing serious just a faint smell. To be sure I would run my fingers around the valve and it had always been just incidental to when I was switching. Today as I switched tanks there was a noticeable wet feeling and could duplicate that when pushing forward, pulling back a little on the shaft. I could "see" wetness at the base of the stem going into the valve. Odd since it is not under pressure but being pulled by fuel flow. Question is---is there a replaceable seal of sorts or stem available or replace the whole valve? Thanks,

Dave Ford
RV6 flying
RV10 building
 
See if the info here helps:

http://www.vansairforce.com/community/showthread.php?t=57661&highlight=fuel+valve+lube

Per Mr Gasman:

"Jim, To disassemble the valve, first back off the screw to release the handle then with a 3/4" wrench unscrew the cap till it clears the threads. Now with the handle still on the shaft but loose, pull on the handle till the assy lifts out. Now, remove the screw, the handle and the cap.

The cap has two "O" rings. One to seal the cap, and one on the shaft. Hardware store or auto parts items. Next is a washer and the spring and then the detente washer. The shaft will stay pinned to the nylon drum. AS you can see, this can be done with the valve in the A/C with the fuel tanks drained. In fact, you could install a new assembly from a new valve and just use the body of the old valve that is still plumbed into the fuel system. With the tanks drained, you could replace this in minutes....... Try that with an ANDAIR.

Do not lubricate the nylon drum. If you want the valve to work with less turning effort, remove the spring and cut one (1) loop off of the spring and bend the cut end back perpendicular to the spring.

Now the valve will work nice and smooth. When you go to assemble the valve, just line up the tab on the detente washer with the slot in the body...... that's it!!

This is a simple well built low priced valve. Once you see it apart, you might have more faith in this valve. I am sure ANDAIR is a quality valve, but there is nothing wrong with this valve that has far fewer parts and is under $50 and can be purchased at your local auto parts store.

Cut the spring, you will like the way it works...........

PS..... If you purchase the nice red after market handle for this valve, be sure to use locktight on the set screw that seats into the flat area of the shaft. And then check it often. If the screw backs off, you will not be able to switch tanks!!!! The stock handle will work even if the screw is missing.
Last edited by gasman : 05-06-2010 at 11:21 AM. "
 
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What I do not know is if putting fuel lube on the tapered plastic part is good or bad. I have read both.
 
Fuel Selector Valve Packings

The o'rings have a thin cross section so be careful and don't stab them with any type of tool. I used EZ-Turn on both the shaft and cap o'rings, following Joe Blank's instructions from Van's. I did not pull the guts out of the body - you can get to both o'rings without doing this. The tanks were half-full at the time.