jdmunzell

Well Known Member
I know this seems basic, but should you find your centerline for drilling on the outside of the flange or the inside of the flange. I think it could make a difference on how well the fuel tank leading edge fits up to the outboard leading edge. It didn't seem the instructions were too clear on that.
 
Oh..Mighty One!!

Wow...that Dan had it all figured out!

The reason I even asked the question was this...last night I drilled centerline holes (one 3/16" and one 1/8") in one Z bracket and then mounted it on the main spar with clecos. I then took the baffle and clecoed one 1/8" cleco in the appropriate hole on the baffle to see how it would all look. I discovered that the baffle was interfering just slightly with the joint plate coming off the outboard leading edge ( by about an 1/8th of an inch). I remeasured the proper spacing of the joint plate and it was spot on! It appeared to me that maybe the centerline should've been on the other side of the flange in order for it all to fit perfectly.

Dan's desciption of his procedure is wonderful and makes perfect sense. I wonder if he can sense out there in sunny California that I'm over here in the snowy East in the process of bowing down to "Oh Mighty One" for braving the trail before us and documenting how he fixed it!
 
jdmunzell said:
I know this seems basic, but should you find your centerline for drilling on the outside of the flange or the inside of the flange. I think it could make a difference on how well the fuel tank leading edge fits up to the outboard leading edge. It didn't seem the instructions were too clear on that.
I know what you mean. The only parts I scrapped during the entire build process through the completion of the wings (10 weeks TT) were several of those "Z" brackets. The plans in this case are just plain wrong. It should have sent red flags up when the instructions call out drilling TWO holes in each bracket....one on each leg.....for the preliminary fitting. In my case, all but 6 of the brackets ended up with misalignment issues. Today, this thread referred me to Dan's site to review his technique and with minor differences, is very similiar to how I ended up redoing the job with replacement "Z" brackets.
 
Using screws instead of pop rivets

Has anyone used nut plates and screw/bolts to attach the Z brackets to the tank? Sure seems like a cap head socket screw would be so much easier to tighten than the cut down pop rivet gun.

I'm about 2 weeks away from doing the rivets and thought this might be a better solution. And with teh nut plate jig, the nut plates are a snap.
 
jdmunzell said:
Dan's desciption of his procedure is wonderful and makes perfect sense. I wonder if he can sense out there in sunny California that I'm over here in the snowy East in the process of bowing down to "Oh Mighty One" for braving the trail before us and documenting how he fixed it!
Well, first of all, I'm not in sunny California. I'm down in warm & sunny Ajijic, Mexico looking out at Lake Chapala. Flew my bride down here to take her to a day spa for Valentine's Day (ok, and also to visit my father).

But seriously, I can't take credit for the procedure. I stole it from an RV-8 builder off the rv-list back when I was building. Ain't the internet great?! We wouldn't be hitting 5000 without it, I'm sure.
 
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