Rene Bubberman

Rene Bubberman

Well Known Member
Hello group,

Last night I started (at last) on the Service Bulletin about the fuel tank. No big deal in itself but I got confused when I started to remount the cover plates. On our QB tanks there is only a cork gasket, can I just reinstall the plates or do I have to Pro-Seal them? If so should I remove the cork gasket? How much ProSeal shall I need for this ?
I also use the standard rubber gasket for sealing the fuel float sender. Somebody warned me that I should also use Proseal for this. Any opinions about that? You understand that I do not want to loose Gas at these prices!
 
I used proseal

...beacuse after reading dozens of posts I came to the conclusion that:-

a) those that use just the cork gasket will eventually have a leak, its a matter of time.
b) prosealed cover plates aren't that hard to remove if you ever need to
c) I hope I never need to!!

When I prosealed the covers in place I smoothed a layer around the plate (not the rib) that covered about a half inch all the way around, including over the screw holes. Then I fitted it, and torques down the scews after dipping each screw in proseal. The proseal oozed out around the edges of the plater forming a kind of 'lip'. They don't leak, and frankly I doubt they ever will. Of course, whether I can actually get them off again later is something I'll find out...later, though I hope I never have to! (various posters assure that they aren't that dificult to remove)

Cheers,
 
I just did the SB on an RV-6A for a buyer that I did the pre-purchase inspection.

The airplane was 10 years old and it was the FIRST RV that I have seen that had gaskets that did not leak on one side. The right tank was leaking at the gasket around the fuel sender but the one to the wing rib did not leak.

I would like to recommend that you use ALLEN HEAD screws instead of the Phillip (cross head) screws shown in the plans. If you use Proseal to install the covers with fillets aound the covers and screws, the Allen Head screws will be able to come out with less work.
 
Yes

Gary is right on the money....using allen head screws dipped in proseal. I had a fuel sender leak and was advised to not even use the rubber gasket and that's what I did. Be sure and coat both the tank and the sender or plate and screw down.

Using the cork gasketAND proseal on both sides of it, enables you to later sacrifice the gasket in the event you ever need to remove it.

One tip...the screws on the float sender are not evenly spaced, so make a black magic marker mark from the plate to the tank to help re-align it when you go to replace it,
Regards,
Pierre
 
I've done quite a few of these. I use only pro-seal and allen head screws. I've never had a leak and never had trouble getting them off. The only leaks I have encountered were where the cork gaskets were used.
 
Thanks a lot for this advise guys!
As for the screws: I guess stainless steel Torx #8 screws are ok too? Do you have any idea what quantity ProSeal is needed for this operation (Plate AND fuel sender)?
 
Titeseal

I'm using Titeseal with the cork gaskets instead of ProSeal with no gaskets. I originally ProSealed my covers on (no gaskets) - but then the SB came out (I'm still building, wings not yet installed). Removing the Prosealed covers wasn't as hard as I thought it would be, but it wasn't super easy and I also had unrestricted access. I think removing them if the wings were installed would have been much tougher. I decided to reinstall with Titeseal and the cork gaskets to simplify any potential future (installed) removals.
 
A glob of proseal about the size of a golf ball should do both sides. A little more if you think you need to slather it all over everything.
 
leaky sender plate

Mel said:
I've done quite a few of these. I use only pro-seal and allen head screws. I've never had a leak and never had trouble getting them off. The only leaks I have encountered were where the cork gaskets were used.
Click to expand...

Mel,
I'm not a builder, but have to seal 4 of the 5 screws on my right tank, as they are seeping fuel. Apparently they were globbed with PRC on the inside, but somehow it didn't work on all of them!
Once I drain the tank, and pull the screws, I want to be able to have it buttoned up that same day.
Can you tell me what size screws I need to order, stainless Torx I think was recommended, but are they #8-20 x 1" or some such thing?

appreciate if you don't recall, I'll look again at the plans,

thx

Perry
RV-9a
 
What does this mean to someone who, like me, has wings on order and will building tanks in say a few months.???
 
flyboy1963 said:
Mel,
Can you tell me what size screws I need to order, stainless Torx I think was recommended, but are they #8-20 x 1" or some such thing?

appreciate if you don't recall, I'll look again at the plans,

thx

Perry
RV-9a
Click to expand...

Perry:

Personally, I wouldn't use stainless screws here. There's virtually no chance they will corrode and there's a much greater chance that you can bugger the heads or break one off if you have to remove them. Use the Torx screws if you want. They are standard AN 8-32 screws and IIRC are about 1/2-5/8 long.

The screws supplied in the kit are perfectly suited for the job.
 
miyu1975 said:
What does this mean to someone who, like me, has wings on order and will building tanks in say a few months.???
Click to expand...

It means that you will be able to build them right the first time........... Just check for service notes on Van's site before you start. Your plans should show revisions that cover this repair.
 
fuel tank service bulletin

I must be missing something. Didn't find this SB on Vans site. Instructions that came with my 9a wing kit I received 2 months ago didn't say to proseal the cover plate on (just use the cork gasket).

Jim
 
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