Paul 5r4

Paul 5r4

Well Known Member
I've developed a couple leaks on the bottom of my right tank at some rivet areas. I don't think the super glue will work and I've looked into the weep no more option. It looks like their work is excellent with a good guarantee.... but a little too pricy for me!

My questions....

1. Is the vans fuel tank repair kit for cutting a hole in the aft baffle for access to the inside? Almost seems this is a drastic measure but how else can you get to the inside?

2. Assuming there is now holes in the back baffle, when trying to reseal the leaky areas is it just a matter of placing more proseal along the seams and on top of what is already there or are you suppose to remove the exsisting proseal first?

3. If more holes are drilled in the baffle isn't there a greater chance for additional leaks?

Thanks in advance.
 
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I can't speak for the send out option, but the best way to seal it is from the inside. You don't need the kit, but you do need some material to cover the hole with and some rivets that won't leak.
 
Fuel Tank Repair

I tried to repair an old set of tanks using the hole in the baffle method. Never managed to cure the leak but the cork/pro-seal sealed the access hole perfectly.

I would start by trying the loc-tite method from the outside. If that doesn't work, thinned pro-seal pulled through the rivet by a very slight vacuum in the tank would be next. If that doesn't work, then a new hole/cover plate to access the tank.

Just my 2?
 
If using the loc tite method, do I have to remove the tank first, (the leaks are on the bottom side). How do you pull a slight vacuum on a tank?
 
Paul 5r4 said:
If using the loc tite method, do I have to remove the tank first, (the leaks are on the bottom side). How do you pull a slight vacuum on a tank?
Click to expand...

I used a tube attached to the fuel vent. All it takes is about one breath in to produce the suction.
 
I had a leak at one point in my tank building once they were all sealed up. I was lucky but I was able to reach in carefully with a dowel and apply some more sealant in the area of the leak. If your leak is in the section with the filler neck this may be an option for you.
 
If the leak is at a rivet, you may not be able to repair it without sealing the ENTIRE length of the rib from the inside. You have nothing to loos by trying the locktight/suction method. I successfully sealed a rivet that way and it held for a few years, but then came back. I have also had success with a dowel working through the fuel cap - again, worth trying before removing the tank and cutting holes. If you do end up removing the tank, the Vans kit is a good cost effective kit. It costs more to buy the materials separate than it costs to buy the kit. You will also need a hole saw (I strongly recommend this one from Mcmaster Car: https://www.mcmaster.com/#30885a12/=163fvfp )
With the Vans kit, I ended up skipping every other rivet. Their rivet spacing seemed overkill to me given that the patch is pro-sealed.
 
I have had success with drilling out offending rivet and install with the plugged pull rivets and pro seal of course this is done on bottom of tank where the rivet won't show and only if there are only a couple of leakers
Vans sells these rivets they are the same type as used on back baffle except countersunk
 
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