[rwarre]

Just finished the cutting hole in my 6 tank baffle and prosealed the tiny leak I found. Any advice before I close it up? Thanks

 

[bruceh]

Just finished the cutting hole in my 6 tank baffle and prosealed the tiny leak I found. Any advice before I close it up? Thanks

Scotchbrite both mating surfaces of the baffle and repair kit. Clean thoroughly with acetone, butter up both surfaces before you put on the repair plate. Give it a slight twist to make sure the proseal on both surfaces are set together. Swirl the ends of the pull rivets in proseal before you set them.

 

[PaulvS]

Just finished the cutting hole in my 6 tank baffle and prosealed the tiny leak I found. Any advice before I close it up? Thanks

Make a slight bevel around the edge of the cover plate on the side that contacts the baffle to make it easier to remove if necessary in future (hopefully not). Also I don't believe it's necessary to "over do" the proseal on the cover plate, it needs only a small amount per the principles in the Vans tank building video.

 

[Ralph Inkster]

Clean the inside of the tank really well.
You will note that aluminum shavings from the hole cutting process like to stick to all the PRC seams in there, one trick is to lightly paint over those seams with left over sealant & lock the shavings in place.

 

[fixnflyguy]

I like to topcoat with PR1422A1/2

I always "topcoat" seal any cover plates or seams with Proseal 1422-A1/2. The A consistency flows easily over rivets and seams applied with a soft bristle brush. This is standard seal procedure for the type aircraft I work on at my dayjob (Big jets and refueling tankers). I understand buying the 1422B (thick) material hurts the wallet, but the additional 1422A (thin) really finishes the job out nice. When I do an RV tank re-seal I also use the 1422A to brush topcoat all the rib flanges inside.

 

[Walt]

I always "topcoat" seal any cover plates or seams with Proseal 1422-A1/2. The A consistency flows easily over rivets and seams applied with a soft bristle brush. This is standard seal procedure for the type aircraft I work on at my dayjob (Big jets and refueling tankers). I understand buying the 1422B (thick) material hurts the wallet, but the additional 1422A (thin) really finishes the job out nice. When I do an RV tank re-seal I also use the 1422A to brush topcoat all the rib flanges inside.

A man after my own heart, maybe overkill for an RV but certainly the 'pro' way to do sealing.
The only think I'll add is just like the first 'B' layer, the metal surface must be prepped the same way for the 'A' coat.

 

[DennisRhodes]

And just a reminder for those who are yet to do Fuel tank repairs, an electric vacuum is not on the list of approved tools to use in a previously fueled tank. The vapor will ignite when pulled thru most conventional shop vacs. Many auto shops have been burned to the ground using electric vacs. Like the OP says Cloth wipe and pro seal overcoat maybe a pneumatic ventura vac if you have one.

 

[Majorpayne317641]

And just a reminder for those who are yet to do Fuel tank repairs, an electric vacuum is not on the list of approved tools to use in a previously fueled tank. The vapor will ignite when pulled thru most conventional shop vacs. Many auto shops have been burned to the ground using electric vacs. Like the OP says Cloth wipe and pro seal overcoat maybe a pneumatic ventura vac if you have one.

Sorry I have to ask, do you have any examples? These guys literally vacuumed up fuel into a wet dry vac.
I only found one example of a house fire and only because he was siphoning gas with a wet dry vac from a car
https://amp.kansascity.com/news/nation-world/national/article263574023.html

https://youtu.be/C-0-PH-ZU_0?si=ea09lEMGM7Yzjwja

 

[Mconner7]

Flushing debris

Shavings clean up…
I left the sump drain out and put a 5 gallon can under the wing with a funnel and a chamois. I then took 5 gallons of fuel and poured it into the cap. After it all ran through, I swapped the cans and repeated this a few times to try and flush any shavings out.

A year later, I still get a small shaving caught in the sump O-ring causing a seep occasionally.

 

[Majorpayne317641]

I’m going through this now but my tank is off the plane. I found rinsing it over and over again with my drilled out 5in holes in the rear baffle has helped get all the shavings out.

 

[fixnflyguy]

Vacuum type

Anytime I'm working fuel cell clean-up I use an air venturi vacuum that has no motor, followed by blowing out and or wash/rinse. They are cheap and simple, light and powerful. Every aviation guy should have one for more than just fuel tanks.

 

[steve murray]

As you close out the tank with the repair plate, be very careful about any pro-seal drips on\around the fuel float sender.

I try to keep the tank oriented such that any drips will not fall\land close to the fuel lever sending arm or float.