[PCHunt]

I have a purchased RV-6A. Recently removed the tanks, and replaced the older version (Isspro) fuel senders with brand new Isspro senders because they were not working. Now the new ones are sticking, or "hanging up".

The Isspro senders come with plastic floats that can be attached either in the center, or at one end. I opted to attach them at the end, thinking that they would clear the baffles better that way.

Could that be the reason the senders are "sticking"?

I also have a pair of the more recent (and current) senders from Van's. But to install them, I need to (a)fabricate a new round plate for the sender mount, and (b) figure out how to bend the float wire properly. I understand that in new construction, the bending and checking is done prior to closing up the tank, so that you have access to the interior of the tank. So the second question is:

How do you bend the float wire properly when the tank is already closed up? How do you get the gage to read "full" and "empty" properly?

 

[Larco]

I had to replace the senders on my 6, upgrading to the newer Vans type a few years ago. It very succesful following Vans instuctions regarding the bend of the float wire, the guages were very close in accuracy and I was very pleased with the result. It was an early 6 and did not require replacing the end plate that retains the sender. I've replaced several senders for customers over the years and do not remember a difference in the plates so I'm not sure what you have. Larry

 

[647jc]

While building my 9A QB I had a similar situation, how do I move the sender arm up and down to check for float binding and proper resistance readings when the tank is already sealed up? I tied a thread to the sender arm and fed that thread out through the tank end plate top screw hole and then through the sender round plate screw hole. I then attached the plate with a couple screws and was then able to pull the sender arm to the top of the tank via the thread coming out of the top screw hole. Kind of tedious but I was able to adjust the bend in the arm to get the proper readings and I did have a float bind on one tank that I was able to catch and correct before it was too late.

 

[PCHunt]

Good inputs,

Thanks, good info!

 

[Mel]

Another method is to make a "false" plate with holes in it. Make the new plate so that the sender is in the exact same location. Cut big holes around the sender in the new plate. This way you can see and adjust the sender properly.

 

[gasman]

Another method is to make a "false" plate with holes in it. Make the new plate so that the sender is in the exact same location. Cut big holes around the sender in the new plate. This way you can see and adjust the sender properly.

YES, but too really see in there ................. make the "false" plate out of plexi !!