B

bikerguy

I'm New Here
I had to pull the fuel sender and I have now re-installed it. My question is, I used proseal on the screws and supplemented the rubber gasket with pro-seal as well. How long do I have to wait before I can put fuel in the tank? I don't want to ruin or wash away the proseal on the screw ends!! ANY advice is greatly appreciated!!
 
My estimate would be to wait about a week, but I'm sure it'll be good before then. Try taking some of the left over proseal and put it in a jar with some fuel. If it doesn't soften or dilute in the jar, you're going to be good.
 
48 hours...

is normally enough time. I just replaced one a week ago and refueled after 3 days. No problem.
P.S. If the proseal is still sticky, wait a little longer.
 
is proseal required?

Getting close to final assembly and have not yet installed the tank senders, is proseal required on the screws and the cover seal?
 
Required? Well....

uk_figs said:
Getting close to final assembly and have not yet installed the tank senders, is proseal required on the screws and the cover seal?
Click to expand...

When I put mine together, I used the supplied rubber gasket, and apparently forgot the advice about sealing the screws. Sure enough - on first fueling, I had a seeper - fuel dripping out overnight. I pulled the senders and reinstalled them with pro-seal instead of the rubber gasket (I found the gaskets to soft and squishy when I tightened the screws), and pro-sealed screws.

No leaks since!

Paul
 
Proseal?

The plans don't seem to call for it as I remember. But I do think there is some blanket statement in there about using proseal on ALL screws going into the tank. Paul probably did it right in getting rid of the squishy rubber gasket. I just reinstalled mine after doing a quick check on something and after I tightened it down (with the tank still installed) I looked in there and apparently I tightened one side of the sender more than the other because there is a WHOLE LOT of rubber gasket being squeezed out on one side!!!

ALSO... just to second some advice I got, didn't take, and now am sorry about!! Go get some of the torx screws or even some home depot #8 allen head screws and don't use the phillips head screws you get with the kit!!!!!! One of my screws semi-stripped itself out when putting it in this last time, and will be LOTS of fun to get out without pulling the tank! I might just be taking it back out anyways if that dang squishy gasket ends up leaking as a result of me overtightening it!!! I don't mind redoing it, but I just don't want to come back to the hangar a couple days later and find all my $4.99/gallon fuel just leaked out!!
 
No gaskets, no phillips head screws.

I've installed many senders and cover plates with pro-seal only and hex head screws. Never had a leak.
I have removed many leaking cork and rubber gaskets.
 
Mel said:
I've installed many senders and cover plates with pro-seal only and hex head screws. Never had a leak.
I have removed many leaking cork and rubber gaskets.
Click to expand...

My cork & rubber gaskets are right where they should be. Still hanging on the garage wall; as I just looked out there to check. :D

Pro-seal only, including the screws of course; and even had to do a removal for the SB. No leaks.

L.Adamson --- RV6A
 
Proseal is good stuff

My cork gaskets are hanging on the shop wall too. To remove hard proseal I used a SS ruler that I sharpened the end on the scotchbrite wheel...Cut through it pretty good.

But back to the point..Drying times do vary quite a bit depending on if you got the hardner mix exactly right or not.

But once its dry leave it for a couple of days and it should be good.

Frank
 
The folks that make the sealer say that it's ok for fuel, when touched, it doesn't leave a finger print. Per phone call a couple of years ago. Larry
 
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