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gpiney

Well Known Member
Since the tubing for the fuel and brake lines in the fuselage are not part of the -1 fuselage kit, I need to order it. Question is: How much of each should I order of each? I am planning for AFP FI for fuel and the standard gear legs. Also, if there are any additional parts which would be wise to order at this time, let me know. I am using the Andair valve and AFP pump and filter.

TIA
 
Consider buying 5250 tubing from ACS

gpiney said:
Since the tubing for the fuel and brake lines in the fuselage are not part of the -1 fuselage kit, I need to order it. Question is: How much of each should I order of each? I am planning for AFP FI for fuel and the standard gear legs. Also, if there are any additional parts which would be wise to order at this time, let me know. I am using the Andair valve and AFP pump and filter.

TIA
Click to expand...

Greg,
Actually, all tubing in certified aircraft is done with 5052. I'm anal, so I was concerned with the cosmetics of my tubing, as well as it's function. The Versitube that Vans supplies is a pain in the a$$ to try to straighten out. The 5052 (I got mine from ACS) comes in 6 ft long straight lengths. I found it easier to start with straight tubing and place bends in it (as opposed to straightening tubing wound up in a roll). Vans Versitube scratches (and gets gouges) even when using a proper bender, like the Imperial Eastman tool. The 5052 also is rated for twice the pressure of the Versitube (it's 3003, not 3033). I used the Versitube to make prototype parts with. I made the actual parts from the 5052. My tubing looks great (even if I'm the only one who ever sees it). It resists scratches and nicks MUCH better than the 3003 Versitube. For the brake lines (high pressure) I think the 5052 is the best way to go. I also used 5250 for my vent lines (no real pressure there) and my fuel lines. This was done for the reasons listed above, not because the extra strength was needed.
Mike's suggestion of using flex lines will save time, but will add weight & possibly require periodic replacement of the lines, if the flex lines are not Teflon lined. That said, thousands of RVs have been built using the 3003 Versitube which Vans sells, and they seem to hold up, except for a few which have had brake line fractures at the caliper fitting. Mike's use of flex lines would eliminate that potential problem. Another solution would be to use rigid line (3003 or 5250) down the gear leg, terminating into a bulkhead fitting. A short (10" - 18") flex line could then be used to connect the caliper to the bulkhead fitting. That is how all automobiles and trucks set up their brake systems. The flex line easily handles the slight side to side movement of the caliper when the brakes are applied or released. Just another thought.
ACS has a rather ingenious shipping method for sending the 5250 tubing. It protects the tubing, yet keeps the shipping costs very cheap.
Charlie Kuss
 
But how much?

Thanks for the suggestions. I still need to know how much of each. Since the brake line and the Vent lines are the same stuff, I will probably need a lot of that one.
 
Fittings

Greg,

You'll need to carefully think through the fittings you'll need.

I'm working on fuel lines now and with the fuel injection plumbing and the Andair valve, you don't even get the correct parts with the finish kit.

Two fittings I've had to pick up were a bulkhead 90 for the firewall and a flare x flare x flare tee for under the Andair valve.

The valve that comes with the kit has female pipe connections whereas the Andair has male flare connections.

You can reference Aircraft Spruce's web site for the fitting configurations and part numbers.

Good luck. :)
 
Tubing

IIRC the tubing comes in the finish kit.

It is perfectly usable for it's intended purpose----EXCEPT----for the lower end of the brake lines inside the wheel pants. Here you should go from the 3003 aluminum tubing to the flexible stainless steel braided teflon line to the brake caliper.

Here, a couple of Ten Dollar 12 in. lines purchased from your local hot rod store or an online racing supplier like Summit Racing will be just the ticket.

This allows the caliper to "float" much easier and eliminates the possibility of the aluminum tubing developing a crack at the caliper with the resultant loss of brake fluid and braking action.:eek:

ps: You will ruin several feet trying to get it right, so order 20-30ft. more of each size from AC$ or Van's than Van ships!!!
 
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The finish kit inventory has 30' of 1/4 inch and 12' of 3/8 inch tubing.

I'd say 30-50% extra is a reasonable amount to order...the learning curve was pretty steep for me. Plus then you'll have it instead of waiting for your re-order ;)


Joe
 
Are Certs Required?

Having done code pipe design in the past when you purchase pipe or tubing for pressure applications you are required to have on file the "Certs" for all pipe/tube and fittings. This is the metallurgical analysis and heat numbers for all material. Is this required for home built aircraft? Or is it available? For piping it did not cost extra from ordering the same material without the certs, however for tubing, that beautiful polished SS tubing that use for railings on your boat, costs about half what the same tube from the same factory with the heat number on the side costs.

Just curious about tubing in aircraft.

Bob Parry
 
THanks

jferraro16 said:
The finish kit inventory has 30' of 1/4 inch and 12' of 3/8 inch tubing.

I'd say 30-50% extra is a reasonable amount to order...the learning curve was pretty steep for me. Plus then you'll have it instead of waiting for your re-order ;)


Joe
Click to expand...

Just what I needed to know.

Thanks again,
 
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