J

JDBoston

Well Known Member
Continuing my tail for the 9A for now, but running into what I would call beginner issues.

Has anyone else run into frustration with bucking (or squeezing) the rivets on the powder coat brackets on the VS pieces (I assume it will be the same on the HS)? I end up with bent over rivets as if they were too long to begin with or perhaps my technique is poor.

I am using a pneumatic squeezer, but for the rivets in the center of the bracket closest to the bend I use the gun with a tungsten bar. On the builder sites I don't typically see these called out as problematic but they seem to consistently dump on me. I have seen others call out problems with rivet lengths that are too long but I assumed the plans would have been corrected by now. If I ever have the means to switch over to the 14 I wonder if they fixed those issues as many of these tail parts are the same.

I am venting a bit perhaps I need to just practice my riveting more to get more consistent results.
 
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Just to be clear - you're saying the rivet is, in fact, the right length? Not saying what is called out, but that you actually measured?
 
I just made a tool from scrap (you need some) .063 and took a file and put a notch in the order to measure the 1.5 height. It takes 5 min, and it will train your eye in less than 38 years.

Another thing - on my 3" no-hole yoke, if the rivet is not in the center the nose WILL TWIST and can easily push over a rivet. Check that on some scrap too.

Happy building!
 
Try a size smaller rivet, then see if it meets the specs after you set it. Eventually you will get pretty good at eyeballing proper rivet length, and there are places where you may need to deviate from callouts for various reasons, such as repairs, and areas where multiple, primed pieces may be a bit thicker than normal.

It gets easier!

Chris
 
Jeff,

I will be having a number of builders visiting my project sometime real soon. I can let you know what that sate is once it is determined.

If you stop by, we can discuss technique.

Also, bring some parts and we can assemble them then as well! If you could bring some tools... That would be fine too.

Come on down!

:cool: CJ
 
+1 For clamping the assembly

I had some of the same problems at the beginning. I'm not sure if this will help, but I found out that the assembly has to be securely clamped. Also, I have to keep a stiff two handed grip on the squeezer. If either the assembly or the squeezer moves out of alignment, the rivet will clinch every time.The same holds true for using my rivet gun. The more securely I clamp my work, the better the results.
 
WOW, you are all amazing. I need to take a look and see if the length is too large for the material.

Al Girard called me as well to discuss, and had another tip for me which I didn't even think about... Put the factory heads on the softer material (the aluminum in this case).

CJ: Let me know when, and I will make every attempt to get down there. I am back at a slow burn right now, but some pointers would be great.

Jon: I didn't actually measure, but will.

I thought I was more skilled than I actually am so back to driving a bunch of test rivets into scrap.
 
correct rivet gun air pressure?

I learned real quick that whenever I had trouble with a rivet, my rivet gun air pressure was off. Longer rivets require more pressure. Longer rivet sets require more pressure. Too much pressure on the smaller rivets is also bad. There is a table of pressures that worked really well for me.
 
Yea whenever possibly putting the factory head on the softer, or thinner material is generally recommended I believe. Also helps keep thin flanges from deforming while you rivet.
 
Tons of good advice have been offered by others ... i experienced most of the issues outlined, not to mention the remedies. In my experience, clenched rivets were generally due to three things: a) rivets too long, b)bucking bar not held perfectly perpendicular to the rivet ( the slightest sideways pressure causes them to bend over), or c) inadequate air pressure. If it makes you feel any better, the long 1/8" rivets are by far the hardest to get right. The six l-o-n-g ones on the inner ribs of HS about made me CRAZY.
 
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