[rvn817j]

End of winter clean up and replacing brake pads, greasing bearings, cleaning wheels, painting fairings....oops I got a problem!

The posts / pins on my starboard (right - why is it always the right brake?) caliper are frozen in the torque plate. What have I done so far? Removed the assembly by removing the axle, squirt penetrating oil on posts, no luck...soak assembly in solvent, bang on posts with a mallet, call Ken at Van's and, finally, seek additional input from other operators / builders on VAF. (I forgot to mention, I also spoke to a friendly A&P about the issue.)

Someone on the list has spoken to a guru at Cleveland. Is there a contact number for the guru (or do I have to go on some sort of spiritual reforming journey to find the brake guru). TIA for your input.

(Upon completion of my journey, I may make a diary entry to Ken so he can help the next unfortunate spirit that has this problem.)

 

[aerhed]

Bet your torque plate is warped/bent so the holes aren't parallel. Eyeball them and see. May be able to losen the nuts & push the pins from the caliper. If one pushes out the other will probably drop right out.

 

[rvn817j]

No Solution In Site

Last evening after a long day at work, I pulled the assembly out of the solvent and it was still frozen solid. I placed the torque plate in a vice and, using a block of wood and mallet, pounded (mostly gently) away on the ends of the post. In about 45 seconds one post freed up, but on the other the collar of the torque plate separated from the torque plate. At least the torque plate is off!

I tried to remove the post (the one wearing the torque plate collar) from the caliper without success. So, time to do a cost benefit analysis. New torque plate ~$170.00; new post (if I can ever get the other one out of the caliper) ~$25.00; so potentially $200.00 to repair, but no certainty of the outcome.

New Cleveland assembly (Part No. 30-9) ~$400.00. Certainty and peace of mind - priceless!

Moral to the story - keep your posts lubricated with some form of dry lubricant (graphite or anti-seize). For those of you experiencing unexplainable brake noises, you may have a post problem. I was experiencing some minor, squeak upon brake application - noting serious, so that is why I started this adventure into brake maintenance.

 

[aerhed]

That has true suckage. Never seen one that bad that wasn't like a rusty "field caliper". I had an RV3 customer that warped a disc and 2 torque plates (right side). Was able to realign 2nd torque plate and ream a few thou over. Problem went away for a year but then the airplane went away, so I don't know long term.

 

[rocketbob]

You should be able to press them out with a hydraulic press and clean up the shafts on a lathe (ideally) or with a drill press. Also the absolute best penetrating oil is a 50/50 mix of acetone and automatic transmission fluid. I've seen scientific tests done comparing that concoction to expensive commercial products and it does the job better than anything, but you wouldn't want to get any on your paint.

 

[rvn817j]

You should be able to press them out with a hydraulic press and clean up the shafts on a lathe (ideally) or with a drill press. Also the absolute best penetrating oil is a 50/50 mix of acetone and automatic transmission fluid. I've seen scientific tests done comparing that concoction to expensive commercial products and it does the job better than anything, but you wouldn't want to get any on your paint.

Thanks rocketbob. No access to a hydraulic press, but I'll try to remember that penetrating oil recipe and only use it in paint free areas.

As noted above, this is true suckage. I will be unable to fly this weekend while I await parts and enjoying the weekend will be impacted due to a thinner wallet. It will give me time to look at other stuff on my plane - lol!