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rv6ejguy

Well Known Member
Is there some issue with this on the RV10? I've tried searching the old threads on this subject unsuccessfully. Is there a consensus on what should be done to stop spacer rotation or is there a problem at all on -10s? Quite a different setup from a 6A.

I may have been confusing this with another thread and main gear extension bolts to fairing breakages.

I'm looking at these parts and in a machining type mood today.
 
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I saw it recently, but can't remember where. They used a tube (pipe) inside the bearings that would allow a preload on the bearings when tightened, but as it bottomed out would create one solid unit from nut to nut.
 
That's it. Thanks very much for the link! :) I've got the thin wall stainless spacers. Not a good design as these don't shoulder on the flat part of the inner bearing race.
 
Ross, I just bumped the thread back to the top.

Title is "Nose wheel problem, and a fix", posted by me.

Hope it helps.
 
New "Fix", isn't

I just received my new aluminum spacers from Van's to replace the SS ones.

Sorry to say, but the Van's guys don't seem to get how wheel bearings work. The new spacers are so wide that they contact the rubber seal. This puts rubber into the spacing/ locking equation which is just as bad as the stainless ones which had a .001 contact area with the curved inner race of the bearing.

Both solutions are unacceptable IMO.

I'm working on getting a proper version of the integrally sealed bearing with a flat face to properly engage a machined spacer. Alternately, if that is not available, I'll machine a curved spacer to match the inner race curvature so that the spacer rests properly on metal, not rubber.

I'm thinking it's the same guy who designed the "fix" that designed the original setup.:mad:
 
Ross, as you are far enough ahead of me to actually need the wheel issue resolved not, let me make a suggestion as to what I was planning on trying when I got to that part of the const.

I think a bit of searching on either the internet, or down at a decent auto part house will find a bearing that will fit in the existing race in the hub, have the correct inner race diameter, and have a flat face for contact to the spacer.

If such a bearing can be found, the next problem is the seal-------the seal used by Grove and Cleveland should work, or again, an automotive seal may be available. One thing, the seal should press into the hub, and ride on the spacer.

If you choose to go this route, please post the part numbers for those of us who follow.

Of course, you could also change out the Matco wheel for a Grove or Cleveland, but the $$$ is kinda high.
 
I phoned my favorite bearing house and there did not seem to be anything that fits the bill properly. Due to the shallow nature of the hub, a separate automotive type seal won't fit. I ground a special tool to machine the correct contour on some new steel spacers. Tonight I'll assemble the stack and get the spacers machined to establish proper preload on the bearing with the bolt tight and inner spacer in place. I'm also planning to put a big AN washer in place on either end so that if something goes wrong, it won't take out the fork.

If you find a better bearing/ seal, let me know. That would be way easier!
 
Yes, after reviewing this link, this is my conclusion too. If that is the Grove wheel at the top, that is the ticket to do it right.

BTW, I did exchange the Van's supplied wheel for the "proper" Matco one to fix the valve stem hitting problem. Matco was fast and efficient.:)

I like the leg design on the RV10 but much of what swivels down at the bottom of it just wasn't done right and still isn't being done right for RV10 customers. Hint, hint.
 
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Ross, yes that is the Grove wheel. The grease seal is the old fashioned felt and washer setup, presses into the wheel, rides on the axle spacer. With the effect of centrifugal force on the grease, there should not be a lot of work for the felt to do, unless it is way over packed with grease.
 
Ross,
I like your fix. That nose wheel assembly has been bothering for months! Where do they come up with these designs? I also like how you took a lot of the fuel system out of the tunnel. Ours is stuffed in the tunnel. It is going to be a nightmare if we have to fix anything!
 
Ross, .004 preload seems a bit light---------

Have you considered welding the steel spacer you machined up, to the washer, then you could stake the washer to the fork, just in case things got loose.

Nice work, by the way.
 
I tried .008 and it was quite tight, machined off .002 more still tighter than I wanted. .004 and there is no way you can rotate the spacers so I left it at that. TIG'ing to cad plating is not fun and I really want the washer to take the damage if the spacer ever spins. Could stake the washer to the fork, then if the spacer spins, it just wrecks the bearings. I may play with it a bit more still.

It would really be nice to have an adjusting nut on one side, I'm to lazy to build something like that. That would be a nice product for the aftermarket guys to sell.

Todd, my tunnel is pretty loaded with stuff, 2 fuel pumps, rad flap actuator, rad pipes, filters SCAT for rear cabin heat a bit of wiring. Not too bad to work on though and maybe not as bad as yours.
 
Mike,

Took your advice and did one more mod to keep the sacrificial washer from spinning. Updated my page with a new photo.
 
Ross, looks good!!!

Lot cheaper/simpler to replace the washer than the fork, should something un-anticipated happen.

How much HP are you estimating the twin turbo setup will have??? Or are you just shooting for sea level normalization??? Right.

What PSRU are you using???
 
I'm rating the takeoff power at around 275 which should just involve about 36-37 inches at 4900 engine rpm (2550rpm prop). The factory redline is 7000 rpm so we won't be pushing it very hard. Cruise will be down around 4000 and 28-32 inches. The torque peak of this engine stock is 4400 so we nicely split this figure at cruise and takeoff power respectively.

I'm using the same Marcotte M-300 drive as the 6A has except a 1.93 ratio instead of 2.2.

Just waiting for some forged pistons I designed to arrive from JE so I can screw the EG33 back together and hang it on the airframe to start the cowling fitment.
 
Thanks.

Good looking project, GREAT looking build site. I wish I had that kind of skill/motivation with a build log.
 
When I built the 6A, I had a way more detailed site: http://www.sdsefi.com/air9.html

I think I spent too much time documenting this build when I should have been building. As a result, on the RV10, I just post when I remember or when friends bug me for progress photos and reports. I have mostly fiberglass stuff to do now. I don't like that part but will plod through it.

Can't wait to get the mount painted and bolted on so I can attach the nose gear and sit it on its wheels. -20C here today so not a good day for painting outside!
 
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