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alpinelakespilot2000

Well Known Member
One of the methods that Dynon allows for reading rpm is by using resistors that connect the Dynon wiring harness to the p-leads at or near the ignition switch.

First, can anyone explain how one goes about attaching the resistors to the 22AWG wire. Is it some sort of crimped connection or does it have to be soldered and shrinkwrapped? Or, something else entirely?

Second, does it go:
a. dynon harness --> resistor --> more wire --> p-lead terminal; or,
b. dynon harness --> resistor --> p-lead terminal somehow?

Thanks,
 
I soldered mine between the Dynon wiring and the ignition switch....right behind the ignition switch and then did the shrink wrap treatment. Mine works great.

David Watson
49FD
 
photo of mine with clear heat shrink on resistors

it took a bit of planning to make sure that the lengths are coordinated to keep everything tidy.

img4942j.jpg
 
It would be better...

[email protected] said:
it took a bit of planning to make sure that the lengths are coordinated to keep everything tidy.

....
Click to expand...

...if you had some stranded wire between the resistor and the key switch.

Your configuration puts the solid wire of the resistor in a position that could get long term damage from vibration. This would be similar to an unsupported solder joint.

Place the resistor a few inches up the cable with a connecting stranded wire and bundle all the wires/resistors together and you will be much more vibration proof.
 
[email protected] said:
it took a bit of planning to make sure that the lengths are coordinated to keep everything tidy.
Click to expand...
Thanks for the picture, Stephen.

One thing that may help you with this is to leave enough extra wire for 1-2 re-terminations at a later time. I didn't in every case, and I have already regretted the occasions where I didn't! You can always make a service loop or overlap the extra wire on itself and zip tie it neatly together. Also,there's no reason the service loop has to be at the switch where things are crowded. You can put it as far upstream as necessary (and accessible) to keep it out of the way. Doing this there's really no need to be perfect in determing the final cut length.

Thanks again.
 
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It doesn't really matter...

alpinelakespilot2000 said:
Gil, I presume this stranded wire b/w the resistor and key switch wire should be the same gauge as the p-lead and not the 22AWG of the Dynon wires, or does it matter?
Click to expand...

...since no current is flowing in the wires. I would use 20 g, but that's only because I think it's easier to strip and handle than 22 g....:)

Just a few inches would be fine.
 
in-line resistor

thanks Gil, i have a stranded wire with the resistor at the switch and the grip of the crimp is very solid. i should have used as stub dummy wire on the other side to help with the crimp but figured the 10+ lb pull that on a direct crimp together with the heat shrink would be sufficient on the 22 ga sensor side. it should be pretty well isolated from vibrations but if i were to do it again i would use a stranded stub to help the crimp.

service loops are good and they can add to the mess unless you keep them tidy and laced down... there are many connections at the mag/starter switch and i wanted to make sure that the lengths matched to help tame the service loop keeping the feed in a nice bundle; i ended up with about 8 inches of extra length.
 
I put our resistors in a Loop of wire and heatshrinked, this way the resistor solid wire is not stressed and less likely to break. I also put the resistor down near the mag, this way there is less high voltage running up in the panel area and less likely to be a noise emitter!

DB
 
But...

RV10inOz said:
I put our resistors in a Loop of wire and heatshrinked, this way the resistor solid wire is not stressed and less likely to break. I also put the resistor down near the mag, this way there is less high voltage running up in the panel area and less likely to be a noise emitter!

DB
Click to expand...

...the high voltage is running to the switch in the panel area anyway - in your P-leads emitting noise...;)

Picking it off the back of the switch is easier and less wiring.
 
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