Gregg Brightwell
Well Known Member
Ok guys, I am posting this here, because I am guessing that the 3/4/6, (if not the 7/8/9 also) are all similar. My -4 wing kit is an older kit. Well the spars are older, but most of the other parts are new. The forward facing flanges on the spar web USED to be the same height as the tank baffle. (Tank baffle faced forward as well) On the newer spars, the forward facing flanges are about 1/32" shorter than the tank baffle to allow the baffle flanges to go OVER the spar web flanges, and then the tank skin goes over the baffle flanges. (Total of three layers, hope I am painting a clear enough picture here) Tank baffle faces aft.
Since I have older spars, and new tank parts, the baffle and spar web flanges are exactly the same height. (Cannot slide baffle over spar web or it causes a bulge)
So, here are my options as I see them:
1- Flip the tank baffle over flanges forward, and notch the ribs to accommodate the baffle flanges.
2- Leave the baffle flanges facing aft per plans, and cut off .5" of the flange to make the baffle flanges.5". This will butt up the baffle and spar web flanges.
I have called Vans, and they said either option is fine, and that there are MANY older rv-4s out there with forward facing baffles. To slightly make it more challenging, the new skins are pre-punched, which permits nearly zero margin for error with respect to edge distance. I am leaning very strongly to option 2, but I would like to see if anyone else has experienced this issue. Thankfully, very little else has changed with the rv-4 wing in the last 20 years.
I hope I have described this well enough. Anyone have another idea, solution other than what I have come up with?
Thanks
Gregg
Since I have older spars, and new tank parts, the baffle and spar web flanges are exactly the same height. (Cannot slide baffle over spar web or it causes a bulge)
So, here are my options as I see them:
1- Flip the tank baffle over flanges forward, and notch the ribs to accommodate the baffle flanges.
2- Leave the baffle flanges facing aft per plans, and cut off .5" of the flange to make the baffle flanges.5". This will butt up the baffle and spar web flanges.
I have called Vans, and they said either option is fine, and that there are MANY older rv-4s out there with forward facing baffles. To slightly make it more challenging, the new skins are pre-punched, which permits nearly zero margin for error with respect to edge distance. I am leaning very strongly to option 2, but I would like to see if anyone else has experienced this issue. Thankfully, very little else has changed with the rv-4 wing in the last 20 years.
I hope I have described this well enough. Anyone have another idea, solution other than what I have come up with?
Thanks
Gregg