L.Adamson

Well Known Member
How are the tubes and tires that Van's supplies these days holding up?

A fellow RV'er who isn't too familier with this forum has asked me to ask the question. He's had two flat nose wheel tires on his new RV9A with in the last few months. His previous 9A from 2004 never had the problem in the 140 hrs that he flew it.

L.Adamson -- RV6A
 
I don't recall any nose wheel flats recently and will go see what tube I have (tomorrow). I think I changed to the low leak tube from someone on the mains and that seems to be doing well now also. For a while I seemed to have more than my fair share of flats.
 
How are the tubes and tires that Van's supplies these days holding up?

A fellow RV'er who isn't too familier with this forum has asked me to ask the question. He's had two flat nose wheel tires on his new RV9A with in the last few months. His previous 9A from 2004 never had the problem in the 140 hrs that he flew it.

L.Adamson -- RV6A

This type of failure interval with a nose tire is usually an indicator of tube damage (pinched by wheel) during installation. Mounting a nose wheel tire on an RV (other than 10) can be a challenge.
 
Our Finish Kit was shipped Aug 2006. The Van's tubes needed topping up every few weeks, and then one went flat (valve problem).

Swapped to Michelin Airstop tubes and no topping up / problems required since. I'd advise anyone building to go that route, and anyone flying and bored of frequent top ups to consider it as well ;)

Andy & Ellie Hill
RV-8 G-HILZ

PS While we're discussing tyres :D a lot of the UK builders now use the 380x150-5 larger tyres... Maybe we do more (soft) grass stuff over here? We had a formation meet the other day and 2 x RV-8 taxiied across a waterlogged area. The depth of the tyre tracks, and power required, for the standard Van's tyres versus us was clearly visible (and audible). Saves rebuilding spats (pants!) too :)
 
NOSE wheel tires

There are a lot of threads similar to this one - they start with questions about nose wheel (non-RV10) tubes or tires, and all sorts of advice about the mains starts showing up. Check the archives for this, lots of discussions. You'll have to sort through the irrelevant replies pertaining to main gears, but the gist is this. There have been lots of nose wheel flats caused not by mounting problems, but by some sort of sidewall chewing that goes on. (plenty of mounting problems also...)

It seems the solution is two fold - one, put a thorough amount of baby powder all throughout the inside of the tire, and two, keep the pressure high, around 30psi. Use caution as you increase the pressure if you have normally used less for shimmy. The failure mode I've seen early on with my plane (3 flats) and on several others is a chewing sort of damage to the tube directly on the sidewall, nowhere near the tread or rim. I've not seen any apparent defect in the tubes.
 
I agree...

There are a lot of threads similar to this one - they start with questions about nose wheel (non-RV10) tubes or tires, and all sorts of advice about the mains starts showing up. Check the archives for this, lots of discussions. You'll have to sort through the irrelevant replies pertaining to main gears, but the gist is this. There have been lots of nose wheel flats caused not by mounting problems, but by some sort of sidewall chewing that goes on. (plenty of mounting problems also...)

It seems the solution is two fold - one, put a thorough amount of baby powder all throughout the inside of the tire, and two, keep the pressure high, around 30psi. Use caution as you increase the pressure if you have normally used less for shimmy. The failure mode I've seen early on with my plane (3 flats) and on several others is a chewing sort of damage to the tube directly on the sidewall, nowhere near the tread or rim. I've not seen any apparent defect in the tubes.

with Alex that this is another failure mode but from what I have seen, it usually takes more than 5-10 hours to occur (unless a tire is run severely under inflated). Since the failure interval was listed as "last few months" I am assuming installation damage as being more likely.

I also concur with using lots of talcum powder!
 
having problems with the default van's tubes... airplane is sitting in the shop but both main wheels loose pressure over about a half a year. went from 30psi to 7in each :-(

anyone have the source, part #, size etc... for the michelin air stop tubes that are being recommended?

thanks a lot,

kind regards,
bernie
 
My right main tube lasted over 200hrs before it developed a leak and had to be replaced. Installation could have been the culprit, but I doubt it. Plenty o' talcum and care were used.
 
having problems with the default van's tubes... airplane is sitting in the shop but both main wheels loose pressure over about a half a year. went from 30psi to 7in each :-(

anyone have the source, part #, size etc... for the michelin air stop tubes that are being recommended?


thanks a lot,

kind regards,
bernie

This is normal............ A/C tires can lose pressure at 1/2 to 1# per week.
 
Van's supplied Airstops at one point...

I never paid attention when I installed my tubes originally in 2005. I lose very little air. Recently, I rotated my tires and discovered the tubes where Airstop supplied by Van's in my kit.
 
I buy my Michelin tubes from the same place I buy my retreaded tires - Desser. I rarely find them any place cheaper.

Paul
 
having problems with the default van's tubes... airplane is sitting in the shop but both main wheels loose pressure over about a half a year. went from 30psi to 7in each :-(

anyone have the source, part #, size etc... for the michelin air stop tubes that are being recommended?

thanks a lot,

kind regards,
bernie

Before I started flying the plane, the tubes would loose air much faster. As to why?

L.Adamson -- RV6A
 
Before I started flying the plane, the tubes would loose air much faster. As to why?

L.Adamson -- RV6A

that's what i'm wondering as well... my car tires barely need one topoff each year or so, why can't the aircraft tires be that way.
also, found out that they loose pressure faster if the safety cap is not on the valve stem. the valve is fine and tight though...
and because of that safety cap requirement, a simple hole for a stem extension in the wheelpants won't do :-(
guess we'll look at removing the wheelpants once a month?!

thanks for any hints/data points...

rgds, bernie
 
the valve is fine and tight though...
and because of that safety cap requirement, a simple hole for a stem extension in the wheelpants won't do :-(
guess we'll look at removing the wheelpants once a month?!

thanks for any hints/data points...

I have a round hole in the wheel pants that line up with the stem, and use an extension. I pull the cap off with needle nose pliers, although some rubber device that clamps around it, might be better. I also found, that I can at least go two months, and perhaps only loose about 5 lbs. It was far quicker than that, when the plane was in the shop.

L.Adamson --- RV6A
 
Nitrogen may be the answer to the slow leak down process. It is being used more and more in cars these days because it does not leak out through the rubber tubes as easily as air does. I assume this is due to the size of the molecules.

It is a bit of a chore setting up with the right regulator etc. My only experience is with my truck tires. I never have to top them off. It seems the only time they lose pressure is from me checking them.

Any experience here with nitrogen in AC tires?

Randy C
 
How are the tubes and tires that Van's supplies these days holding up?

A fellow RV'er who isn't too familier with this forum has asked me to ask the question. He's had two flat nose wheel tires on his new RV9A with in the last few months. His previous 9A from 2004 never had the problem in the 140 hrs that he flew it.

L.Adamson -- RV6A

On my -7A, I'm still using the original nose tire and tube that Van's supplied 4 years and 450 hrs. ago. For the first year I kept it at 25 psi, but noticed some scuffing on the bottom of the nose wheel pant.

Since then, I've maintained it at 35 psi. After repainting the wheel pant, I notice I still get a little scuffing on the bottom.

My main tires and tubes are also original as supplied by Vans. I had a flat on one wheel apparently because it was under-inflated at 30 psi. After patching the leak on the tube and increasing the pressure to 45 psi, it's still good 2 years and 250 hrs. later. No out of balance issues that I could feel with it.

For me, a medium to higher pressure has worked better than a lower one.
 
Flat caused by sticky label!

A couple of days ago, I have a flat on the left main gear of my 9A. Fortunately it was in the hangar.

Today, I changed the tubes in both of the mains. The L main had a leak around a funny square abrasion on the tube. Further investigation showed the remnants of a sticky label inside the tire (Airhawk). The adhesive on the label had hardened due to heat and formed an abrasive that attacked the tube.

I cleaned it all out and installed a new Michelin tube.

The R main was not flat, but I inspected the tube and tire and found the same abrasion and sticky label problem!

Clearly there is a problem here. I don't know where these labels come from, or why they are attached to the inside of the tire, but my guess is that they are "QC OK" type labels... that damage the product!

The original tires/tubes are from Vans.

IMG_1229.JPG


Now, here's a second problem. After installing the Michelin tubes, I found that the valve core was recessed about 1/8 into the stem, and my pressure gauge and valve extension would not work properly. I could pressurize the tire, but not check pressure or let air out with the valve extension. Very strange, and I'm wondering if anyone else has seen this problem. I will try changing the cores tomorrow.

Cheers,
Vern
 
that's what i'm wondering as well... my car tires barely need one topoff each year or so, why can't the aircraft tires be that way.
rgds, bernie

Automotive tires are Tubeless. Tubeless tires are MUCH better than tube type in all situations. However a 5" Tubeless tire is not a friendly tire to work with. Anyone having experience with tubeless wheelbarrow tires knows this. They are very difficult to re-inflate without special tools if the bead breaks as it likely would on such as small diameter tire.

Car tires are also heavier to reduce leakage. Automotive racing tires with thin side walls leak down much faster than normal street tires. So with small diameter light weight tires we are likely stuck with tubes.

It is interesting to note that the crazy mountain bikers who jump off cliffs are going to tubeless tires to avoid pinching when they drive the tire into the rim after a hard "landing".

Bob Parry