[jlfernan]

Flap rod-end bearing

I'm building a 9A QB. I jumped the gun and installed the rod end bearing in the flap. The plans say an additional washer may be used to move the bearing inward. I'm curious how many people needed to do this and how difficult it would be to remove the bearing if blue(medium strength)
Loctite was used?

 

[Norman CYYJ]

You may have to use a washer and maybe not. It will depend on your placement of the flaps when you install the hinge and how the push tube exits the fuselage. Unscrew them and put them on when you are ready to hang the flaps.

 

[FrankK90989]

Mine needed a washer. And blue Loctite does remove easy.
Frank K
N MN Brrrrrr
9A N128CE

 

[sportpilot]

RV9a QB

We installed the rod ends with the blue locktite, with the understanding we may have to remove them later. We thought it was better to "finish up" a component as airworthy as opposed to leaving it loose for later adjustment. We have not yet reached the point where we might need to add a washer so we dont know yet. We felt pretty sure the blue goo was user friendly enough not to worry.

 

[cytoxin]

blue red yellow

blue is next to nothing to remove. i built mercury 200hp outboards, was suppose to use red used blue (rod bolts)still going strong @6200 + rpm. the red gets tough and the yellow is almost next to welding. GM uses this (yellow) on disc caliper bridge bolts.very difficult to remove even with 2-3 ft. breaker bar.

 

[Craig]

Mine is one step worse.

With no washers, the locknut on the bottom bearing stud (CM-4S) barely has locking capability. If I added a washer to the other side, it wouldn't lock. By the way, it was horrible installing the locknut. I had to use my entire vocabulary. I'm told that newer kits call for a platenut when constructing the flaps.

I trimmed the fuselage exit hole all the way up to the doubler on the inside of the skin. The pushrod still won't fit. The lower rod end needs to come inboard.

I called Van's, and got a good tip. If you need more inboard adjustment, you can use a different rod end (CM-4M, like the one at the top end). Then use a dash 4 bolt and spacer of the appropriate length to get the rod end inboard where it needs to be.

Craig Mac Arthur