T

TShort

Well Known Member
I'm not super concerned about pulled rivets on the exterior of the RV (already have a few) but was wondering if there is a way to buck the rivets on the forward upper part of the inboard flap rib (the ones behind the actuator bracket). I haven't figured out a good way yet (pulled the ones on the right flap and am getting ready to finish the left tomorrow and wondered if others have been able to buck these).


Thomas
-8 flaps
 
I just finished my flaps 2 days ago. The only rivets I couldn't buck on the inboard flap rib were the ones near the TE (noted on the plans) and the bottom one right next to the platenut for the control rod. The forward ones are easy since the spar is not installed yet. Maybe I don't understand the ones you are talking about.

Dennis Glaeser
7A Wings done - installing flaps
 
I'm talking about the ones that attach the top of the inboard rib to the skin - behind the actuator bracket.... there must be a difference between the -7 and the -8 as there is no platenut and the plans don't mention much about rivets (pulled or not).

T.
 
I thought the 7 and 8 flaps were the same (obviously). On the 7, the thick doubler plate for the control attachment is on the side opposite the flanges, so no problem riveting the flanges to the skin.
If the doubler were on the same side as the flanges, you'd have to rivet the rib to the skins first, then attach the doubler (like the thick flange on the LE of the fuel tank).
Rivet callouts on the 7 flap drawing are tough to find also. I wish they'd used symbols like they do for the wing skins.

Dennis
 
Installation

Thomas,

Did you put the 706B plate on the wrong side of the 704 rib, or use the wrong rib? When correctly installed on the outside (side towards the fuselage), every skin rivet is easily accessed for bucking (except for the trailing edge rivets and one under the nutplate as Dennis mentioned). The plate is on the opposite side of the web from the flanges, and the flanges face the interior of the flap.

BTW, watch for sequence traps. During spar installation, pull the rivets joining the forward flange of the 704 end rib to the FL-706 angle before bucking the plate and angle together. These pulled rivets are very close to the angle's vertex (even closer than the tank brackets). Bucked rivets will further erode puller clearance, maybe to the point of having to drill them out to allowing pulling. There's plenty of room to buck over the heads of the pulled rivets, though.

John Siebold
 
Nope, it's assembled correctly - there is a significant difference in the inboard rib / actuator assembly between the -8 and the -7. On the -8, the rib has the "open" side facing inboard, and there is an extra 3/4"x3/4" angle that is riveted in there to support the bracket.
I just looked at the -7 preview plans on Walter's site...
Personally, I like what I see on the -7 flap better - I suspect it is the more "up to date" version (we have the same flap assembly as the -4 and -6 - part numbers are FL-406C, etc.). Having that nutplate there will be nice - us -8 drivers have to finagle a nut in behind the plate to attach the actuator.

Thomas
-8 flaps
 
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Thanks for the clarification! I agree, the 'new' design is much easier!
Is there any reason not to rivet the rib first, then add the fittings?
Otherwise you need a really skinny bucking bar... :rolleyes:

Also, why not put in a platenut to avoid hassling with the nut? Since that is the 'new' way to do it, why not take advantage?

Dennis
 
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