[Phil]

I'm adding rudder trim similar to Vic's and I'm planning on using Avery's fairings for the pushrod exit.

Instead of putting the fairing on the outside of the skin, I'd like to put it on the inside. This means I would cut an exit hole for the fairing to protrude though.

This might be how they were intended, but I've seen them on the outside too and I'd rather have them on the inside and use a filler to fill the gaps around the fairing and hole.

Has anyone seen them done this way? How'd they turn out?

 

[Deems Davis]

Been there done that

Phil, I originally installed the fairings on the inside. However I found later that there is not enough room for the cable and it's shield to exit. I considered several options, including opening up the exit hole, but they all had additional complications. I ended up removing them and placing them on the outside and then using filler to blend them.
Here's a link to some photos:

BEFORE :http://deemsrv10.com/album/Sec 10 Tailcone/slides/DSC01146.html

AFTER: http://deemsrv10.com/album/Sec PP Painting Preparation/slides/DSC04628.html

 

[Tbone]

I put mine on the outside, before I ran the rudder cables. Now I am going to have to take them off and run the cables first because the eyelet won't go thru the opening.

 

[f1rocket]

You Mean Like This?

This isn't a RV-10, but the concept is the same.

You can go to this web link for the "how to".http://www.pflanzer-aviation.com/Fuselage1.html

 

[N908RV]

Elegant Solution Randy

Wish I thought of that...

Rob

 

[Phil]

This isn't a RV-10, but the concept is the same.

You can go to this web link for the "how to".http://www.pflanzer-aviation.com/Fuselage1.html

I thought about that too. My only issue was the thickness of the skin. The rudder is .016 and the fairings are .025. So I would still have a ridge around .010. Granted that's better than a ridge of .025.

I might play around with one and see if I can taper it down closer to .016 thickness around the edges. Sounds like a lot of work, but it might be worth it.

I also thought about calling Avery and seeing if they would be willing to work some up in .016 for me instead of .025.

 

[Phil]

Deems,

I was worried about the clearance too. It's a bummer!

Since I'm working on the rudder trim and only dealing with a thin servo push rod, I might be able to make it work.

 

[Rick S.]

Phil,

It would be almost a no brainer to make a small fairing out of glass cloth instead of the larger and heavier metal ones. Make your opening for the pushrod and cover with a tapered half tube just large enough to cover the rod through it's full length of travel. Apply some duct tape over the tube and surounding area. Apply a three ply layup over the tape. Pop it off, trim it up then epoxy it to the skin with a counter sunk pop rivet or three then blend it to the skin with micro and epoxy. You shouldn't have any need to remove it after it's done.