llavalle

llavalle

Well Known Member
I just completed my first riveting session on my first tank.

Here's a few pics. I've never pro-sealed anything before (except the trailing edges on the emp). I made a nice filet and covered every shop head.

I'm looking for opinions : am I doing it right?

Thanks!

DSC04492.JPG


DSC04493.JPG


DSC04506.JPG


DSC04505.JPG


DSC04507.JPG


DSC04503.JPG
 
Looking good! A little trick with proseal.. put alcohol on your finger and you will be able to smooth out the proseal. Remember to keep reapplying alcohol to your finger so that your finger wont stick to the proseal. I also use spatula's www.browntool.com/Default.aspx?tabid=255&List=1&ProductID=2607 to help create a nice and smooth application (also use alcohol on tools as you would your finger).

Also with pro seal, if you find it not working or laying out the way you like, you can add MEK while your mixing it (MEK is in proseal) to "thin" out the mixture. If you keep adding MEK you can actually make it the consitancy of soup which is good for filling voids as it will flow into the low areas. If you play with the amount of MEK you add to the mixture it will change from a paste to a consistancy that you can apply with a roller, to even thinner which I only use when working on flat surfaces because it will flow.

On your fuel filler, I see you sealed each individual rivet, the only thing I would recommend is to apply proseal to that entire lip area. If you look at all the edge distance their it is more area that could become loose with time and allow fuel to seep under the proseal. By applying to the whole lip area you cut down on this area as the whole thing is sealant. The only reason I would do this is I have trouble shot a lot of Mooneys and found that to be the problem and on all the King Air's and Citations that I work on, they seal the **** out of everything. Nothing worse then filling it up with gas and finding a seep.

Keep up the great work!
 
Last edited:
I could be real picky and say that you are using an excessive amount. But, on the other hand, that's certainly better than using too little.
 
Mel,

Have you looked inside a certifed plane with sealed fuel tanks? It looks like they let a bunch of smurfs run around with sealant guns trying to hit each other. Good thing you aren't an inspector for Raytheon, they would never pass ;).
 
Looks great. The only thing I did different was add little pieces of tape between the rivets for the drain. After the sealant was partially cured, I pulled the tape up and that left small channels for any water or debris to flow better into the drain sump. Probably overkill but it made me feel better.

I used the same amount of proseal. Mel is right, probably too much but better than too little. As I said, I used too much.
 
MNAv8or said:
......you can add MEK while your mixing it (MEK is in proseal) to "thin" out the mixture.....
Click to expand...
While it is perfectly acceptable to wipe away excess proseal with MEK, I am not aware of a single manufacturer that approves thinning it with MEK. Indeed, you will likely find they caution against doing so. I base this understanding on years of applying proseal on new manufacture military aircraft. I am told that the only acceptable thinning material on non-military aircraft *may* be toulene in very small amounts, but I've never followed up on that to be absolutely certain though. In any case I have never run into a single situation in which thinning proseal is even necessary. One way or another, I'd contact the proseal manufacturer before I'd start messing around with its chemical properties on an ad hoc basis.
 
Good!

I'm on the right track. So far, working with proseal hasn't been too bad. I had to drill out 1 rivet on the filler flange and that was a mess (with the metal shavings sticking to everything) but so far, it's OK.

Next, the ribs... they should be a bit more "interesting" ;)

The only reason it looks clean it's because everything else was masked with tape! I got Smitty to thanks for that trick!
 
The Pro Seal I use for repairing aircraft fuel tanks has MEK in it. Its listed right one the label of ingridients. I was taught the process of thinning by General Dynamics (the Gulfstream support center), and SWAT the fuel tank repair people. I have done this repairing fuel tanks and have not had one issue.

The sealant we use at work does have MEK in it. The sealant that you may be using may not have MEK in it. Only add MEK if your proseal has MEK in it.

Military may use something different altogether.
 
possible water dam at drain

not sure how much of a real issue it is but you have formed a bit of a dam around your tank drain that may prevent some of the accumulated water from reaching the drain. i copied what others have done to provide channels to the drain...

img0548f.jpg
 
Rick6a said:
How many clecos do you have? Photos here can show you how it is possible to seal all the fuel tank ribs without smearing the sealer and in a relatively mess free, trouble free manner:

http://www.vansairforce.com/community/showthread.php?t=7602
Click to expand...

Hummm, this is VERY interesting. I think I'll do that. I have plenty of clecos. A friend just "loaned" me 200 and I bought 300 at Osh...

[email protected] said:
not sure how much of a real issue it is but you have formed a bit of a dam around your tank drain that may prevent some of the accumulated water from reaching the drain. i copied what others have done to provide channels to the drain...
Click to expand...

Good idea. I will try to cut small pieces of pro-seal with a plastic scraper today.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.